RE: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Air leveling and pwr cord retractor

Bob C.

Yes, MMC did use the Glendinning (when ordered on coach - 02 Windsor) and
located it in the left-rear corner. Heat problem may or may not be a
factor; to date, no problem (rap rap rap on wood).

Jim M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Bob Clerc
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 5:27 PM
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Air leveling and pwr cord retractor

> Bob, I'm going to hve to use the existing box and the feed off the
> left rear corner. There isn't enough room between the lr wheel and
> the water works bay not only that the AquaHot exhaust comes out under
> there!!
> My reference to second rate wasn't made about the cable reel system it
> was in reference to someone elses comment that the system used by
> Monaco since they gave up HWH wasn't as good!!
>
> Ron
> @Corona, Ca

I've never had nor "inspected" a MH with either a connector or a cable
feed point just ahead of the LR corner. But in the case of the factory
ordered cable reel feeding from that point, my assumption is that they
would use a Glendinning. Although our TDI open reel is great in a bay,
my guess is that the drum, tucked into the corner behind the engine
would be better, although heat may be an issue, but if that's where MCC
puts it, they should be OK, maybe.

Bob Clerc
@ Canoga Park, CA



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 85 TD Cruise Control Problems

I've removed and replaced mine, after trying to resolder it, as well as removed one from a PAP, which was the same number as mine, and installed it. Still no good. Won't do it again without knowing I have a good amp and actuator. Removing the amp is a pain in the ass, no back. I had to lay on my back, ass out the door, and reach up and unscrew the amp. I believe it was phillips #2. One side comes off OK, the rear screw has to be fiddled with, small vise grips, shorty phillips et al.

Rob
'85 300D
Costa Mesa, CA

  5c. Re: 85 TD Cruise Control Problems     Posted by: "vwnate1" vwnate1@yahoo.com vwnate1     Date: Wed Feb 6, 2008 9:42 am ((PST))   I seem to recall this topic came up before ~ you have the typ II  (electric) system , maybe it's the cold solder joints on the C.C.  amplifier ? .  There's a few places you can mail off the amplifier and servo to and  they'll check then and do a ' TUNE UP ' typ of maintenence on them .  God alone knows how to get the C.C. amp. out from under the dashboard ,  I've been trying for over a _YEAR_ and cannot reach neither the amp.  nor the bracket it's bolted to as most recommend , to-day I have the  dash binnacle out and _still_ cannot even see it much less acess any  bolts holding it in .  -Nate      Lawrence  wrote:   
The cruise control surges on level ground or down hill.  Works ok on      
steep    
hills.  Keeps the speed rock solid at 65mph going over the Altamont      
Pass    
between Livermore & the Central Valley.  Lawrence Rhodes...      
   ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________  7a. Speedo & Cruise Control Amp.     Posted by: "vwnate1" vwnate1@yahoo.com vwnate1     Date: Wed Feb 6, 2008 1:30 pm ((PST))    O.K. , I re-installed the dash binnacle , while it was out I had our  ex - Mercedes dealer mechanic take a look at how to get the  flusherginner C.C. amp. out , had had NO IDEA so I had the speedo guy  take a look as they repair Cruise Control to , he looked in , blanched  and said " PASS ! " .  Is there anyone who can give me an idea how to get this @#$^!!@#ing  thing loose from my car so I can get it fixed ? .  TIA ,  -Nate     
   
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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: pwr cord retractor

> Bob,
>
> Our power bay is on the left rear of the coach and has a power reel. The
> cord feeds down and out through a trap door. This is standard on an Alfa
> Gold.
>
> Greg Vederoff
> 05 Alfa Gold #2963

I've very aware of the power reel on the Gold. Been looking very hard at
the 08. Alfa seems to focus on a lot of things that make sense.

Bob Clerc
@ Canoga Park, CA


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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

I can't remember ever seeing a rear end that the pinion could be removed
without removing the axles.

Darrel Goheen
PressurePro@tvnav.com

http://www.tvnav.com/pressurepro.html

Voice 785-625-3546/FAX 413-383-8800

----- Original Message -----
From: "wayne KINGSTON" <welleking@yahoo.com>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 8:04 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.


> KEN,
> I'm glad some one chimed in that knows what he's talking about. would
> you explain to Russ and others how the pinion can be removed with out
> pulling the axles. I would attempt it my self but my opinions seem to
> always be dismissed or otherwise forgotten . Wayne E Kingston '95
> EXEC/4runner in Gila Bend
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
> now.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Newbie requests info 300SDL 1987

Tom,
us = This group?

I will post a separate question about filter brands.

Vijay
> Contact us for the correct filters and coolant.
>
> Tom Hanson
> Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
> thomas.hanson@...
>



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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

Ken,
A good well thought out explaination. Thanks. That will keep me from messing around with any rear ends. Chuck B

Kenneth Molloy <ken@molloys.org> wrote:
--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, wayne KINGSTON <welleking@...> wrote:
>
> KEN,
> I'm glad some one chimed in that knows what he's talking about.
would you explain to Russ and others how the pinion can be removed with
out pulling the axles. I would attempt it my self but my opinions seem
to always be dismissed or otherwise forgotten . Wayne E
Kingston '95 EXEC/4runner in Gila Bend
>
>
Wayne, to put it simply, it can't!

FIRST: Let me warn you: This explanation is going to get complicated,
but the question was raised. I know lots of fine mechanics who have
never worked on a rear axle. When I worked for a Chevrolet dealer, I
was the only mechanic in the shop who did rear axle work. I spent many
years as an aircraft maintenance instructor in the Air Force, so please
excuse the length of this reply. I wish I had a chalkboard.

SECOND: Let's define some terminology: The "tail pinion" is the short
shaft with a pinion gear on it that sticks out of the drive axle.
The "ring gear" is the large bevel gear which engages the tail pinion
and surrounds the "differential assembly". The "ring gear" is bolted
around the "differential assembly" which contains the "side gears"
splined for the "drive axles" and the "planet" or "sun" gears.
The "rear axle housing" is the steel housing which runs crosswise
between the wheels and supports the weight of the vehicle. The big
round area in the center of the "rear axle housing" has a heavy casting
bolted or welded to it which is known as the "differential carrier
housing". On a diesel pusher, this "differential carrier housing" will
be on the back side of the "rear axle housing". If the "differential
carrier housing" is bolted to the "rear axle housing", it can be
removed and placed on a workbench.

THIRD: Unless the drive axle has a "pinion cage" bolted on to the
front of the "differential carrier housing", the "tail pinion" cannot
be removed without removing the "differential assembly", and both axle
shafts must be removed before the "differential assembly" can be
removed. A motorhome probably won't have a "pinion cage" unless it has
a 2-speed axle.

FOURTH: Trucks and motorhomes are equipped with "full floating
axles." This simply means the axle shaft doesn't support any vehicle
weight. "Full floating axles" simply transmit torque to the drive
wheels, but the wheel bearings are located between the wheel hub and
the rear axle housing. If you've seen new trucks being delivered from
the factory -- sort of stacked on one another, only the first truck has
the axle shafts installed. The other wheels are just free wheeling.
You might want to remember that if your motorhome ever has to be towed
a long distance. Instead of removing the drive shaft, you could remove
the axle shafts. But you will need to make some kind of a cover to
bolt on to the hub to keep the grease from running out. Truck
factories use a little circular piece of metal or plywood with holes
drilled around the circle to bolt it up tight to the hub.

FIFTH: Some banjo style rear axles are designed so the "differential
carrier housing" can be unbolted from the "axle housing". However,
even on banjo rear axles, both axle shafts must still be removed to get
the "differential assembly" out, because the axles are splined into the
side gears, and the "differential assembly" must be removed from
the "rear axle housing" before the pinion can be removed. The
advantage is simply that the "differential carrier housing" can be
moved to a workbench instead of lying on a creeper beneath the
motorhome.

FINALLY: Just to repeat one point that Russ brought out. There should
be no movement of the "tail pinion" either up and down, or sideways, or
in and out. But there should be a slight rotational movement
(backlash), but not more than about 1/16" to 1/8". And as mentioned
before, if the zerks were missing, that alone is sufficient cause for
replacing the U-joints. Even if only one U-joint is bad, I'd replace
both of them, because they've both gone the same distance, and most of
the labor has to be done just by removing the driveshaft.

I hope this helps.

Ken Molloy
'94 Allegro Bay 37' DP
5.9 liter Cummins 230 hp w/Allison M-3060


Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, wayne KINGSTON <welleking@...> wrote:
>
> KEN,
> I'm glad some one chimed in that knows what he's talking about.
would you explain to Russ and others how the pinion can be removed with
out pulling the axles. I would attempt it my self but my opinions seem
to always be dismissed or otherwise forgotten . Wayne E
Kingston '95 EXEC/4runner in Gila Bend
>
>
Wayne, to put it simply, it can't!

FIRST: Let me warn you: This explanation is going to get complicated,
but the question was raised. I know lots of fine mechanics who have
never worked on a rear axle. When I worked for a Chevrolet dealer, I
was the only mechanic in the shop who did rear axle work. I spent many
years as an aircraft maintenance instructor in the Air Force, so please
excuse the length of this reply. I wish I had a chalkboard.

SECOND: Let's define some terminology: The "tail pinion" is the short
shaft with a pinion gear on it that sticks out of the drive axle.
The "ring gear" is the large bevel gear which engages the tail pinion
and surrounds the "differential assembly". The "ring gear" is bolted
around the "differential assembly" which contains the "side gears"
splined for the "drive axles" and the "planet" or "sun" gears.
The "rear axle housing" is the steel housing which runs crosswise
between the wheels and supports the weight of the vehicle. The big
round area in the center of the "rear axle housing" has a heavy casting
bolted or welded to it which is known as the "differential carrier
housing". On a diesel pusher, this "differential carrier housing" will
be on the back side of the "rear axle housing". If the "differential
carrier housing" is bolted to the "rear axle housing", it can be
removed and placed on a workbench.

THIRD: Unless the drive axle has a "pinion cage" bolted on to the
front of the "differential carrier housing", the "tail pinion" cannot
be removed without removing the "differential assembly", and both axle
shafts must be removed before the "differential assembly" can be
removed. A motorhome probably won't have a "pinion cage" unless it has
a 2-speed axle.

FOURTH: Trucks and motorhomes are equipped with "full floating
axles." This simply means the axle shaft doesn't support any vehicle
weight. "Full floating axles" simply transmit torque to the drive
wheels, but the wheel bearings are located between the wheel hub and
the rear axle housing. If you've seen new trucks being delivered from
the factory -- sort of stacked on one another, only the first truck has
the axle shafts installed. The other wheels are just free wheeling.
You might want to remember that if your motorhome ever has to be towed
a long distance. Instead of removing the drive shaft, you could remove
the axle shafts. But you will need to make some kind of a cover to
bolt on to the hub to keep the grease from running out. Truck
factories use a little circular piece of metal or plywood with holes
drilled around the circle to bolt it up tight to the hub.

FIFTH: Some banjo style rear axles are designed so the "differential
carrier housing" can be unbolted from the "axle housing". However,
even on banjo rear axles, both axle shafts must still be removed to get
the "differential assembly" out, because the axles are splined into the
side gears, and the "differential assembly" must be removed from
the "rear axle housing" before the pinion can be removed. The
advantage is simply that the "differential carrier housing" can be
moved to a workbench instead of lying on a creeper beneath the
motorhome.

FINALLY: Just to repeat one point that Russ brought out. There should
be no movement of the "tail pinion" either up and down, or sideways, or
in and out. But there should be a slight rotational movement
(backlash), but not more than about 1/16" to 1/8". And as mentioned
before, if the zerks were missing, that alone is sufficient cause for
replacing the U-joints. Even if only one U-joint is bad, I'd replace
both of them, because they've both gone the same distance, and most of
the labor has to be done just by removing the driveshaft.

I hope this helps.

Ken Molloy
'94 Allegro Bay 37' DP
5.9 liter Cummins 230 hp w/Allison M-3060

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[diesel_mercedes] Retrun spring in door latch.

I have a drivers door that you must return the latch by hand by pulling on the door knob then letting go to reset the latch.  I can see inside where the spring is hanging I can sort of push it but is that little hole on the side of the latch for a special tool to clip the spring back on to its perch?  I had it all apart but couldn't seperate the door handle from the lock/latch.  Lawrence Rhodes.......
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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information

You do not want to mix the colors.

--
Dave Knight
dknig288@comcast.net
Hook'em Horns 1969

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "SF" <sf@jeepshots.com>

> I hope I read further and folks tell you not to mix the colors.
> SF
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joe
> To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 8:22 AM
> Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information
>
>
> My Country Coach Intrigue came with coolant that was green. I
> repleaced a radiator in a friends MH and bought some coolant from
> Cummins 50/50 mix and it was blue. Had some left over and used it in
> my MH. That's gone and I bought some heavy duty coolant for trucks
> 50/50 and it's orange. Looked at the specs and all said they could be
> used with any other coolant. What's the difference.
>
> Joe
> 98 Country Coach Intrigue
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
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>
>
>

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

Mike

What you described about the U-joint not being fully drilled out is exactly what was installed on my MH when it was built new. A faulty U-Joint and even though it was being serviced when called for, the grease was not getting where it was suppost to go.

--
Dave Knight
dknig288@comcast.net
Hook'em Horns 1969

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "ucdavisgsm" <mike@fleming.cc>

> Now that Ken refreshes my memory, I too recall the crush plates to
> establish preload on the hypoid gears. I'd agree there shouldn't be
> end play, as the gears should be preloaded when assembled properly.
> This supposes small vehicle facts are transportable to this large
> vehicle, but I'd bet money it's factual in this case.
>
> Seems like I'll get a flag for "piling on" but I'll ad my $.02 that
> missing zerks = REPLACE THE CROSSES, NEEDLE BEARING SETS, AND CUPS on
> the u-joint assemblies w/new, known good u-joints. BTW, new u-joints
> need to be inspected to assure the grease hole runs full length from
> zerc to all 4 bearing cups; sometimes they don't get fully drilled
> out, and on my rig I can assure you I'd check the new u-joint grease
> galleries myself prior to installation. The mechanic might think I'm
> a jerk (and whadoo I know, maybe he's right), but having a u-joint
> fail for this reason is not necessary. And if one isn't drilled out
> properly, you can get one that is.
> maybe that's $.04.
> Mike
>
> --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Kenneth Molloy" wrote:
> > > Hi Phil and Mike,
>
> > I too would change the u-joints and test before
> > pulling the rear apart. You are talking lots of labor $ verses
> > minimal labor $ to be sure...
>
> > I was the only mechanic in the shop who owned a dial
> > indicator. There should be NO END PLAY in the tail pinion! NONE!
> > Depending on the rear axle manufacturer and model, the preload on the
> > pinion bearings is usually set by torqueing the nut on the yoke to a
> > certain value, which crushes a bushing on the shaft. That "crush
> > bushing" has to be replaced every time the yoke nut is removed.
> >
> > If there were zerk fitting missing from the U-joints, that alone is
> > good reason for replacing the U-joint. If you just screw in a new
> > zerk fitting and grease the U-joint, you would be forcing every grain
> > of sand right into the needle bearings!
> >
> > U-joint kits aren't very expensive, and the labor to remove the drive
> > shaft, replace the U-joints, and reinstall the drive shaft shouldn't
> > exceed 3 to 3-1/2 hours.
> >
> > Ken Molloy
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
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>
>
>

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

Hi Glen,

You may trust those guys and they may be the greatest people.

But, and this is a "BIG BUT" It's obvious to me from what I have read that
they do not have the expertise or experience to be doing this job on your
coach.

Very bad things could happen to your coach if this is not fixed properly.

You need too find an experienced truck shop like Freightliner or something
similar.

Good Luck

Fred Hengel



-------Original Message-------

From: glen milender
Date: 02/08/08 09:52:00
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

Guys - Thanks again- Now they are saying that the problem is not in the axle
but that the drive shaft is wobbling. They've taken it to another shop to
check it out. I trust these guys. I think it's just something they haven't
run into before. Anyway, I think it's good noews for me, cause now they won
t be going into the axle. He said that check out OK so he dug further. I
mentioned the U joints like you guys said, but he seems to think they will
be OK. Thanks, Glen

Kenneth Molloy <ken@molloys.org> wrote: --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com,
Russ Waterhouse"
wrote:
>
> Ken,
> When you say there should be no play in the pinion shaft. You
should explain in a
> forward and reverse manner. There is some "twist" play, but none in
up and down, or
> forward and back.
> Russ

You're absolutely right, Russ. There out to be just a little
movement when you twist the pinion, but just a fraction of an inch --
a few thousandths. If you marked the pinion housing and the yoke,
then rotated the yoke, there ought not to be but about 1/16 of an inch

Ken

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kenneth Molloy"
> To:
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 12:26 AM
> Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.
>
>
> : --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, fred hengel wrote:
> : >
> : > Hi Phil and Mike,
> : >
> : > I really hate to be negative on mechanical issues as they can
really
> : > surprise you sometimes. It seems to me any competent shop would
> : have already suggested replacing the U-joints when they saw zerks
> : missing and a dry condition. Especially when they diagnosed bad
> : pinion bearings. I too would change the u-joints and test before
> : pulling the rear apart. You are talking lots of labor $ verses
> : minimal labor $ to be sure.
> : >
> :
> : This whole scenario reminds me of an incident which made it on
one of
> : the television programs a few years ago. A couple in a motorhome
> : would be cruising down the freeway in Arizona when a pickup would
> : pull up alongside and wave them down, telling them there was smoke
> : coming from the rear end. The MH was then advised to take a
nearby
> : exit and take it to a shop where the mechanic rolled under the
rear
> : end and removed the differential cover, then came out with a
greasy
> : rag full of metal shavings he said came out of the rear end.
> :
> : The shop was able to locate a good used differential assembly for
> : about $500, and when it came, they would install it. Several
RVers
> : had fallen into this same trap, and the television shop finally
set
> : up a motorhome with a TV camera directly above the rear axle, and
> : then drove down that same stretch of the freeway. They caught
> : the "mechanic" taking a greasy rag full of shavings under the MH
and
> : then opening it up and showing it to the RVer. Then the "used
> : differential" turned out to be the original one after it was all
> : cleaned up.
> :
> : The Arizona state police arrested everybody who was involved and
when
> : the differential was properly reinstalled, there were no problems.
> : They had been victims of a scam.
> :
> : When I was a mechanic, I did a lot of rear axle work -- possibly
> : because I was the only mechanic in the shop who owned a dial
> : indicator. There should be NO END PLAY in the tail pinion! NONE!
> : Depending on the rear axle manufacturer and model, the preload on
the
> : pinion bearings is usually set by torqueing the nut on the yoke
to a
> : certain value, which crushes a bushing on the shaft. That "crush
> : bushing" has to be replaced every time the yoke nut is removed.
> :
> : If there were zerk fitting missing from the U-joints, that alone
is
> : good reason for replacing the U-joint. If you just screw in a new
> : zerk fitting and grease the U-joint, you would be forcing every
grain
> : of sand right into the needle bearings!
> :
> : U-joint kits aren't very expensive, and the labor to remove the
drive
> : shaft, replace the U-joints, and reinstall the drive shaft
shouldn't
> : exceed 3 to 3-1/2 hours.
> :
> : More than 50 years experience as an automobile, airplane and RV
> : mechanic have taught me that when you have a problem like this,
look
> : at the last thing which was done before the problem started. In
this
> : case, the driveline was removed for towing. Apparently there was
no
> : vibration before the driveline was removed, but now there is
> : vibration! Bingo! Eureka! Problem solved!
> :
> : I still believe the problem will end up being that the two yokes
on
> : the ends of the driveshaft are not aligned in the same plane.
That
> : will very definitely cause a vibration.
> :
> : Ken Molloy
> : '94 Allegro Bay 37' MH
> :
> :
> :
> : --------------------------------------------
> : Off-topic posts will be removed.
> : Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the
RV model you have.
> :
> : To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
> : Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> :
> : Yahoo! Groups Links
> :
> :
> :
> :
>

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Air leveling and pwr cord retractor

Bob C,
Our factory installed cable reel in located in the narrow bay foward of the plumbing bay where the water pump, inverter, water heater, and transfer switch lives. The 04 Windsors that do not have the cord reel has the power cord on the drivers rear. Chuck B

Bob Clerc <kerplunk@clercfamily.net> wrote:

> Bob, I'm going to hve to use the existing box and the feed off the
> left rear corner. There isn't enough room between the lr wheel and
> the water works bay not only that the AquaHot exhaust comes out under
> there!!
> My reference to second rate wasn't made about the cable reel system it
> was in reference to someone elses comment that the system used by
> Monaco since they gave up HWH wasn't as good!!
>
> Ron
> @Corona, Ca

I've never had nor "inspected" a MH with either a connector or a cable
feed point just ahead of the LR corner. But in the case of the factory
ordered cable reel feeding from that point, my assumption is that they
would use a Glendinning. Although our TDI open reel is great in a bay,
my guess is that the drum, tucked into the corner behind the engine
would be better, although heat may be an issue, but if that's where MCC
puts it, they should be OK, maybe.

Bob Clerc
@ Canoga Park, CA



Chuck & Mary Boros
04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat

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RE: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

To my mechanical knowledge the whole pumpkin must be removed and the axles
most definitely must be pulled out of the rear.

Gerrit (Gary) Van Der Starre

2006 Horizon 2008 Jeep Wrangler

Home Base Rochester, NY

_____

From: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of wayne KINGSTON
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 9:05 PM
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

KEN,
I'm glad some one chimed in that knows what he's talking about. would you
explain to Russ and others how the pinion can be removed with out pulling
the axles. I would attempt it my self but my opinions seem to always be
dismissed or otherwise forgotten . Wayne E Kingston '95 EXEC/4runner in Gila
Bend

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

KEN,
I'm glad some one chimed in that knows what he's talking about. would you explain to Russ and others how the pinion can be removed with out pulling the axles. I would attempt it my self but my opinions seem to always be dismissed or otherwise forgotten . Wayne E Kingston '95 EXEC/4runner in Gila Bend


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[diesel_mercedes] 80 Amp. Alternator ~ $69.99 On E-Bay

O.K. , here's a link to an Automotive Electric Rebuilder who's
selling out stock on FleaBay :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AFSEL%3AUS%
3A1123&viewitem=&item=360021766381

$69.99 outright , plus $25.00 freight .

If that link is bad , the item @ is :

360021766381

Simply copy & paste it .

This is the very same one I am installing into myDiesel Coupe , one
of these days .

-Nate


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Pressure Bleeding Brakes

I only use air as it's messy to store a pressure bleeder with brake
fluid in it .

You _will_ need to top up the master cylinder resivoir when passing
from rear to front circuit .

-Nate
Eric wrote:
>
> are pumping brake fluid or air through the bug sprayer?
>
> Eric Ditwiler
> Director, Academic Operations
> Harvey Mudd College
> 909-607-3134
> eric_ditwiler@...
>
>
>
> On Feb 8, 2008, at 10:29 AM, Kevin Kraly wrote:
>
> > My pressure bleeder (wherever it is) was made from an old bug
> > sprayer and an old MC cap. It worked very well and only cost
me
> > $12 or so.
> >
> > Kevin


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Brake pad cleaning.

Glad to be of help .

-Nate
Nate wrote:
>
> The other Nate in L.A. had the best answer.
> I cleaned the areas that the pads slide on,also the pins,and used
high
> temp grease.The brake no longer sticks.I was worried I needed rear
> bearing and hub.A $250 job.
> TN Nate
>



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Auxiliary Water Pump

Jeff Fennema wrote:

> > Question is, how did you negotiate the 10% discount?
> >
> Parts girl has a thing for older Mercs, and the guys who fix 'em, I guess.
> It was just given to me, I never asked.
> Jeff
>
>


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Question for you

lostintheflood2 wrote:

> Thanks to you all. You guys are great! I am now re-inspired and will
> print out your responses to share with my husband.
>
> Your reasons for your preference for older model MB's are grounded in
> some very very good principles of self-reliance and independence. I
> like that!
>
> And thanks to Daniel for clarifying the meaning of TD for these
> vintage MB's.
>
> "By the way, when referring to MB cars of this era TD
> would mean "Transport or Touring Diesel" what we call
> a station wagon, not turbo charged diesel."
>
> We have plenty of time to watch and wait for the best deal we can find.
>
> We live in Snohomish, Washington, which is about 30 miles NNE of
> Seattle. Is there anyone in the neighborhood that knows a good local
> diesel mechanic?
>
> I'm going to stick around and keep reading.
>
> My best regards to you all,
>
> Lanni
>
>


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RE: [Diesel-RVs] Re: pwr cord retractor

Bob,

Our power bay is on the left rear of the coach and has a power reel. The
cord feeds down and out through a trap door. This is standard on an Alfa
Gold.

Greg Vederoff
05 Alfa Gold #2963
Verizon USB 720/CradlePoint CTR 350/Passive Antenna Booster
 
Reality is a figment of the imagination!
 
Find us at: http://map.datastormusers.com/user1.cfm?user=1595

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Bob Clerc
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 5:27 PM
> To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Air leveling and pwr cord retractor
>
>
> I've never had nor "inspected" a MH with either a connector or a cable
> feed point just ahead of the LR corner. But in the case of the factory
> ordered cable reel feeding from that point, my assumption is that they
> would use a Glendinning. Although our TDI open reel is great in a bay,
> my guess is that the drum, tucked into the corner behind the engine
> would be better, although heat may be an issue, but if that's where MCC
> puts it, they should be OK, maybe.
>
> Bob Clerc
> @ Canoga Park, CA
>
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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10:06 AM

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Air leveling and pwr cord retractor

> Bob, I'm going to hve to use the existing box and the feed off the
> left rear corner. There isn't enough room between the lr wheel and
> the water works bay not only that the AquaHot exhaust comes out under
> there!!
> My reference to second rate wasn't made about the cable reel system it
> was in reference to someone elses comment that the system used by
> Monaco since they gave up HWH wasn't as good!!
>
> Ron
> @Corona, Ca

I've never had nor "inspected" a MH with either a connector or a cable
feed point just ahead of the LR corner. But in the case of the factory
ordered cable reel feeding from that point, my assumption is that they
would use a Glendinning. Although our TDI open reel is great in a bay,
my guess is that the drum, tucked into the corner behind the engine
would be better, although heat may be an issue, but if that's where MCC
puts it, they should be OK, maybe.

Bob Clerc
@ Canoga Park, CA


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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information

I hope I read further and folks tell you not to mix the colors.
SF


----- Original Message -----
From: Joe
To: Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 8:22 AM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Coolant Information


My Country Coach Intrigue came with coolant that was green. I
repleaced a radiator in a friends MH and bought some coolant from
Cummins 50/50 mix and it was blue. Had some left over and used it in
my MH. That's gone and I bought some heavy duty coolant for trucks
50/50 and it's orange. Looked at the specs and all said they could be
used with any other coolant. What's the difference.

Joe
98 Country Coach Intrigue

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Question for you

Hey,
my 86 300 SDL travels to Packwood WA every Xmas using the same
route.........
Maybe you passed me?.........

Henry


----- Original Message -----
From: <audiolaw@aol.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Question for you


>
> In a message dated 2/8/2008 2:47:09 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> lanni.johnson@verizon.net writes:
>
> We live in Snohomish, Washington, which is about 30 miles NNE of
> Seattle. Is there anyone in the neighborhood that knows a good local
> diesel mechanic?
>
>
>
>
> Lanni,
>
> You know from my previous response that I am in the camp of people who
> think that these are cars for do-it-yourself people.
>
> But since you're in Snohomish, you might be interested to know that my
> '81 300SD travels every Christmas from L.A. to Bellingham. We zip up the
> I-5,
> through the CA central valley heat, over the Siskyous snow pack and
> through
> the WA humidity. Comfortable, quiet and inexpensive all the way at 70
> mph.
> Then return in early January, except sometimes going along the coast road
> instead of the I-5.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
> (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
> 48)
>


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Question for you

My owners manual (300D turbo)includes some references to the wagon
as Transport Diesel.

I think I remember seeing the term Tonnenwagen Diesel, maybe in an
old Road & Track mag. I don't even know if that's a real word.
Maybe my poor memory invented that one. <shrug>.

Rich

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "lostintheflood2"
<lanni.johnson@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks to you all. You guys are great! I am now re-inspired and
will
> print out your responses to share with my husband.
>
> Your reasons for your preference for older model MB's are grounded
in
> some very very good principles of self-reliance and independence.
I
> like that!
>
> And thanks to Daniel for clarifying the meaning of TD for these
> vintage MB's.
>
> "By the way, when referring to MB cars of this era TD
> would mean "Transport or Touring Diesel" what we call
> a station wagon, not turbo charged diesel."
>
> We have plenty of time to watch and wait for the best deal we can
find.
>
> We live in Snohomish, Washington, which is about 30 miles NNE of
> Seattle. Is there anyone in the neighborhood that knows a good
local
> diesel mechanic?
>
> I'm going to stick around and keep reading.
>
> My best regards to you all,
>
> Lanni
>



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Cooling Capacity 1987 300SDL

Right you are Stan. I typed faster than I think!

I have 1.5 quarts (very approximately guessing) of concentrate left (=
3 quarts of coolant) so I must have used 13 quarts (more or less) ,
which is be the capacity of the tank.


Vijay

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Stan George <ssgkag@...> wrote:
>
> >
> > Just for the record I purchased nearly 2 gallons of antifreeze.
> > Diluted with 2 gallons of water. And used up all but about 1.5 quarts
> > of it.
> >
> > So I guess the coolant capacity is about 6.5 quarts.
> >
> Hmmmmm. 2 gal anti plus 2 gal water is 16 quarts. If you had about
1.5
> quarts left, you must have used 14.5 quarts. I'm sure that's what you
> meant to say. (of course strictly speaking there was only about 6.5
> quarts of anti in all that water)
>
> --
> Stan George
> Portland, Oregon
> >>
>



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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Air leveling and pwr cord retractor

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, Bob Clerc <kerplunk@...> wrote:
>
> rlorton2000 wrote:
>
> > The coach has a compartment in the left rear of the coach where the
> > present power cord receptacle is. I think the glendinning assy is
> > what Monaco installed in their factory setups. Since that woud use
> > existing unused space it woud be better to put the unit in that
> > compartment than use other space such as the utility compartment
> > where the inverter etc are. To those who have had aftermarket units
> > installed, what price range should I expect?
> > Looks like I'll see what Monaco says about the air leveling and then
> > decide what I'm gonna do. I certainly wouldn't want to spend big
> > bucks then have a second rate system.
> > Thanks, Ron
>
> Been using the TDI 50 amp reel for over 5 years without a single
> problem, so wouldn't call it a second rate system. But I had the coach
> wired for later installation of that reel in a small compartment just
> ahead of the drive axle (along with a hose reel), so don't have the
> connector at the LR corner. It is possible that the Glendinning
would be
> a better choice in that application, as the cable drop straight down
> into a drum rather onto an open reel. Others would have to comment on
> that. The TDI runs $5-600, depending on source.
>
> Bob Clerc
> @ Redlands, CA

Bob, I'm going to hve to use the existing box and the feed off the
left rear corner. There isn't enough room between the lr wheel and
the water works bay not only that the AquaHot exhaust comes out under
there!!
My reference to second rate wasn't made about the cable reel system it
was in reference to someone elses comment that the system used by
Monaco since they gave up HWH wasn't as good!!

Ron
@Corona, Ca


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Question for you

In a message dated 2/8/2008 2:47:09 PM Pacific Standard Time, lanni.johnson@verizon.net writes:
We live in Snohomish, Washington, which is about 30 miles NNE of
Seattle. Is there anyone in the neighborhood that knows a good local
diesel mechanic?
 
Lanni, 
 
    You know from my previous response that I am in the camp of people who think that these are cars for do-it-yourself people. 
 
    But since you're in Snohomish, you might be interested to know that my '81 300SD travels every Christmas from L.A. to Bellingham.  We zip up the I-5, through the CA central valley heat, over the Siskyous snow pack and through the WA humidity.  Comfortable, quiet and inexpensive all the way at 70 mph.  Then return in early January, except sometimes going along the coast road instead of the I-5. 
 
Tom



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Cooling Capacity 1987 300SDL

>
> Just for the record I purchased nearly 2 gallons of antifreeze.
> Diluted with 2 gallons of water. And used up all but about 1.5 quarts
> of it.
>
> So I guess the coolant capacity is about 6.5 quarts.
>
Hmmmmm. 2 gal anti plus 2 gal water is 16 quarts. If you had about 1.5
quarts left, you must have used 14.5 quarts. I'm sure that's what you
meant to say. (of course strictly speaking there was only about 6.5
quarts of anti in all that water)

--
Stan George
Portland, Oregon
>>


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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Newbie requests info 300SDL 1987

I called my local dealer to see if I can buy the manual on CD. He
tells me that I need to call 1-800-367-6372 and ask for tech
literature. I do that and the answer is that "we dont carry that
manual (or CD) anymore for such an old car". No special orders etc.
The best he could offer me is to go to a pay per view site called
startekinfo.com.

Any other ideas on how to go about getting this manual?

Vijay

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "vvjk" <vvjk@...> wrote:
>
> Thank you Brian and Nate for the welcome and helpful advice.
>
> I do have the owners manual, but was hoping for some experienced
> advice which you have just given me Nate.
>
> $ 20 for CD manual at the dealer huh! Sounds like a bargain. And yes
> Nate I too will buy the Zerex, not the MB coolant.
>
> Thanks once again. I am coming back to MB diesel after a painful
> break of almost 10 years. I have to recreate all the things I have
> forgotten.
>
> Vijay
>



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Cooling Capacity 1987 300SDL

Just for the record I purchased nearly 2 gallons of antifreeze.
Diluted with 2 gallons of water. And used up all but about 1.5 quarts
of it.

So I guess the coolant capacity is about 6.5 quarts.

Thanks everyone.

-- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "vvjk" <vvjk@...> wrote:
>
> I would like to flush the coolant on my 1987 300SDL.
>
> The users manual says that the anticorrosion/antifreeze @-30 deg C is
> 4.8 US quart and at -45 deg C it is 5.8 US quart. This doesnt exactly
> tell me how much antifreeze (Zerex) I need to buy, Is it half of the
> above amounts or is it the above amounts.
>
> Thanks
>
> Vijay
>



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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Vibration when coasting.

Now that Ken refreshes my memory, I too recall the crush plates to
establish preload on the hypoid gears. I'd agree there shouldn't be
end play, as the gears should be preloaded when assembled properly.
This supposes small vehicle facts are transportable to this large
vehicle, but I'd bet money it's factual in this case.

Seems like I'll get a flag for "piling on" but I'll ad my $.02 that
missing zerks = REPLACE THE CROSSES, NEEDLE BEARING SETS, AND CUPS on
the u-joint assemblies w/new, known good u-joints. BTW, new u-joints
need to be inspected to assure the grease hole runs full length from
zerc to all 4 bearing cups; sometimes they don't get fully drilled
out, and on my rig I can assure you I'd check the new u-joint grease
galleries myself prior to installation. The mechanic might think I'm
a jerk (and whadoo I know, maybe he's right), but having a u-joint
fail for this reason is not necessary. And if one isn't drilled out
properly, you can get one that is.
maybe that's $.04.
Mike

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Kenneth Molloy" <ken@...> wrote:
> > Hi Phil and Mike,

> I too would change the u-joints and test before
> pulling the rear apart. You are talking lots of labor $ verses
> minimal labor $ to be sure...

> I was the only mechanic in the shop who owned a dial
> indicator. There should be NO END PLAY in the tail pinion! NONE!
> Depending on the rear axle manufacturer and model, the preload on the
> pinion bearings is usually set by torqueing the nut on the yoke to a
> certain value, which crushes a bushing on the shaft. That "crush
> bushing" has to be replaced every time the yoke nut is removed.
>
> If there were zerk fitting missing from the U-joints, that alone is
> good reason for replacing the U-joint. If you just screw in a new
> zerk fitting and grease the U-joint, you would be forcing every grain
> of sand right into the needle bearings!
>
> U-joint kits aren't very expensive, and the labor to remove the drive
> shaft, replace the U-joints, and reinstall the drive shaft shouldn't
> exceed 3 to 3-1/2 hours.
>
> Ken Molloy


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Lutkefiske

On Thu, 7 Feb 2008 23:02:05 -0800 (PST), tom hanson wrote
Tom is right, but given the amount of lye in the lutefiske, paint does not adhere so make sure you get the right color lutefisk before you start welding or you'll have a problem!  :+0

> Lutefisk is not only good to eat, you can use it for
> patch panels on rusty body parts!!
>
> Tom Hanson
> Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
> thomas.hanson@mbusa.com
>


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Lutkefiske

You may be gone 7 days the lutefiske will keep themn away for the rest of your life....

On Fri, 8 Feb 2008 07:17:57 -0800 (PST), BStromsoe wrote
> A couple in the pockets of your trousers will keep the skunks (and women) away too. Auf Wiedersehn - I am "touring" for 7 days.
>
> brian
>
> tom hanson <halfviking@yahoo.com> wrote:


>
> --- vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > Amazingly , I had several buddies who live in
> > Minnesota and they not
> > only eat that crap , they claim to _like_ it ! .
> >
> > -Nate
> > Tom wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Is that anything like Lutkefiske?
> > >
> > > Tom
> > >
> > > Max writes:
> > >
> > > Do you guys eat Ludafish? (I'm sure I spelled
> > this wrong). Max
> > >
> >
> >
> Lutefisk is not only good to eat, you can use it for
> patch panels on rusty body parts!!
>
> Tom Hanson
> Mercedes Benz Classic Center USA
> thomas.hanson@mbusa.com
>

>
> brian from la verne, ca
>
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Question for you

> I like the idea of buying an '80's version Benz TD, but we've never
> had a diesel and my husband is not a mechanic and he has no interest
> in working on cars. He is concerned that buying a car that old (over
> 20 years) will mean a LOT of maintenance. From reading the posts on
> here, I can't figure out if you guys are doing what you do because you
> have to or because it's fun (maybe both?).
>
He's right. A car as old as what I drive everyday (81 Citroën 2CV, or 84
300CD) will break down more often. They will also require more maintenance,
ESPECIALLY compared to a Toyota. Some won't like that answer, but it is
true.

> Anyway, my question...if we could find a well-maintained 84 or 85
> Benz, would it mean constant maintenance, way more than a newer car?
>
Simply put, yes.
>
> Would we be in danger of breaking down on a road trip?
>
Probably.
>
> I realize these questions are subjective, but I'm just trying to
> understand the attraction of the older Benz cars to justify my
> interest and I want to know your thoughts.
>
The attraction of a Benz?? Safety, for one. Daimler-Benz is one of two
companies to ever institute a policy of active crash dissection. Volvo was
the other, though I doubt the program exists in the post-Ford takeover days.
Simply put, the program bought back the wrecks of any current production
Benz that was involved in a fatal wreck, no matter the reason. The hulk was
(is) then taken completely apart and the reason for the death ascertained.
Through this research, D-B have found, for instance, that 80% of single
vehicle accidents are suicides. Also, it is often said that no one has ever
died in a head-on while in a Benz as long as safety belts were worn. While
this may by hyperbole, the fact remains that Daimler-Benz are the only
company to 'test' their vehicles in this manner. Mind the German laws allow
questioning of survivors without requiring disclosure of findings to the
police, which allows a greater disclosure of details than would be the case
here in the USA. Still not convinced?? Recall the crash of the late Princess
Diana: the sole survivor was a front seat passenger, in an E-Class, mind,
who was wearing the seat belt. Just FYI, the W123 became the E-Class in
1986.
Another reason?? I have never driven such a solid car in my life, and I have
had a few (over 100).
>
> We've been driving a 2001 Camry since it was new and it's been a great
> car, but the days of diesel are here.
>
Wait a year or so, Toyota will bring their diesels over here. Check
Toyota.uk.co for more info. They put a diesel into every model that they
produce for the UK market, even the Yaris gets two diesel options. From that
website:

The impressive Avensis is offered in three body styles with a choice of two
VVT-i petrol engines and three D-4D direct-injection, common-rail diesel
power units. All deliver exciting performance, excellent fuel economy and
low emissions.

The 2.2 litre 177bhp D-4D direct injection engine of the T180 will take the
Avensis past 62 mph in 8.6 sec. and on to 137 mph, yet its fuel economy is
rated at just 46.3 mpg combined and its emissions are well within Euro IV
limits.

The other grades feature the 2.2 litre 140 D-4D direct injection engine
which will Avensis past 62 mph in 9.3 sec. and on to 130 mph, whilst fuel
economy is rated at just 47.1 mpg combined and its carbon dioxide emissions
are just 156g/km.

The all new 2.0 litre turbocharged D-4D engine* has an incredible balance of
performance and low emissions - 130 bhp, maximum torque of 300 Nm, maximum
speed 127 mph, acceleration to 62 mph in 11.1 seconds, fuel economy on the
combined cycle 51.4 mpg, CO2 emissions 146 g/km.

The 2.0 litre VVT-i engine* (with direct-injection technology for improved
performance, fuel economy and low emissions) - 145 bhp, maximum torque 196
Nm, maximum speed 130 mph, acceleration to 62 mph in just 9.4 seconds, fuel
economy on the combined cycle nearly 35 mpg, CO2 emissions 191 g/km. Whilst
the 1.8 litre VVT-i engine* - produces 127 bhp, with a maximum torque of 170
Nm, maximum speed 124 mph, acceleration to 62 mph in 10.3 seconds, fuel
economy on the combined cycle 39.2 mpg, CO2 emissions 171 g/km.
* Figures based on Avensis saloon.

Jeff



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Updating 1995 E300D Fuel Injection System to 2005 E300 CDI Common Rail

> Is it possible to update the diesel fuel injection system on a 1995
> E300 Diesel to the system used in the 2005 E320 cdi turbo diesel? The
> 2005 engine is an inline six of 3.2 liters displacement. I know the '95
> doesn't have the turbo, but the commonrail injection and control units
> should be more efficient than the 1995 system.
>
Of course it's possible. But I bet the real question is: "Can I do it
myself?" And only you can answer that.
People have flathead Ford V8s that are now injected, I know of a couple 2CVs
that are now injected, so it IS possible.
Jeff


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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Auxiliary Water Pump

> Question is, how did you negotiate the 10% discount?
>
Parts girl has a thing for older Mercs, and the guys who fix 'em, I guess.
It was just given to me, I never asked.
Jeff



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[diesel_mercedes] Re: I hope no one told me this was THAT easy...

What I did last year was clean the glue off gasoline/and dawn.Then
painted the area where hood pad is black.Then put heat reflective tape
where diesel hood pad has the heat sheild. works.
TN Nate


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