establish preload on the hypoid gears. I'd agree there shouldn't be
end play, as the gears should be preloaded when assembled properly.
This supposes small vehicle facts are transportable to this large
vehicle, but I'd bet money it's factual in this case.
Seems like I'll get a flag for "piling on" but I'll ad my $.02 that
missing zerks = REPLACE THE CROSSES, NEEDLE BEARING SETS, AND CUPS on
the u-joint assemblies w/new, known good u-joints. BTW, new u-joints
need to be inspected to assure the grease hole runs full length from
zerc to all 4 bearing cups; sometimes they don't get fully drilled
out, and on my rig I can assure you I'd check the new u-joint grease
galleries myself prior to installation. The mechanic might think I'm
a jerk (and whadoo I know, maybe he's right), but having a u-joint
fail for this reason is not necessary. And if one isn't drilled out
properly, you can get one that is.
maybe that's $.04.
Mike
--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Kenneth Molloy" <ken@...> wrote:
> > Hi Phil and Mike,
> I too would change the u-joints and test before
> pulling the rear apart. You are talking lots of labor $ verses
> minimal labor $ to be sure...
> I was the only mechanic in the shop who owned a dial
> indicator. There should be NO END PLAY in the tail pinion! NONE!
> Depending on the rear axle manufacturer and model, the preload on the
> pinion bearings is usually set by torqueing the nut on the yoke to a
> certain value, which crushes a bushing on the shaft. That "crush
> bushing" has to be replaced every time the yoke nut is removed.
>
> If there were zerk fitting missing from the U-joints, that alone is
> good reason for replacing the U-joint. If you just screw in a new
> zerk fitting and grease the U-joint, you would be forcing every grain
> of sand right into the needle bearings!
>
> U-joint kits aren't very expensive, and the labor to remove the drive
> shaft, replace the U-joints, and reinstall the drive shaft shouldn't
> exceed 3 to 3-1/2 hours.
>
> Ken Molloy
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