[diesel_mercedes] Re: 83;; 300 SD engine miss ( follow up )

 

First I thank those that replied . I still have not adjusted the valves, but will get it done. I did do one thing thathas made a huge difference.
Not wanting to spend time waiting on an internet order, I called up local auto parts stores. I am the type that deals with only one or two clerks, ones who actualy know what they are talking about, and got ahold of justin at our local O reilys. he said what they had on the shelf was not suficent for my nees, but he had two bottles of stuff he had personal ordered and used ; plus he qept it hidden in the back, since it was not a store carry item for this area. he had personaly used it on a motor home that had sat for three years and would not even start, due to bacteria, so now he swears by it.
I went and got one of the two bottles he had. Only having about 10 gallons of fuel in the car, I put just a quarter of an ounce in a quart of bio diesel, instantly noticing a slight color change in the fuel. Then I poured it into the fuel tank.
The car was already warmed up, as I had driven it to town. When I first started driving it to town, the miss was still there. I pourposely drove only 20 mph, watching the temperature guage, to determine when the miss disappeared, a bit better. Rural America, no traffice you can do that. And it just confirmed the 80 C temperature, as I mentioned, concerning valve adjustment in an earlier post. Just above 80 c it stopped.
Back to putting in the FppF Killem I bought for bacateria problem. I drove it 3 miles to the Old Idabel, Haworth Highway, and noticed no difference. But almost immediately after that, I noticed a difference. At first, I was thinking, maby this is just wishfull thinking , I went 8 miles and turned arround to come home. Again, it was a bit zippy at slower speeds. Comming up a small hill, it dawned on me, it was not pulling down, so I accerated it, and gee, it had real zip.
This car has always been one , that you made absoulately sure the road ahead was clear before passing on our two lane roads . Like a turttle passing a snail. But yesterday, at 40 and above, no hesitation, and it picks up fairly fast, considering its weight. Over all its acceration is better than it has been for the three years we hae had it.
I am sold, especialy for myself, especialy my home brew fuel. I can get as big headed, egostical as I want, but I will foul up . Of course this will eventualy lead to problems. My thinking at this time, a treatment with this stuff, say at the same time oil is changed, may be a good preventive maintance.
Earlier this morning, my wife wanted to go to town, so I cranked it up for her. Still a miss, but not as bad, so I idled it at 1000 rpm for a few minutes. The miss disappeared at 40 C this morning, I am now hoping it is just a bacteria problem. Of course the valves should still be adjusted . but it would relieve concerns about valves running too tight and damaging seats.
Again thanks for the thoughts on the problem, and especialy the one on fuel fouling from bacteria. Bill C

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>
> The stuff they sell at marine boat shops. They sell it their because ocean going diesel tanks need to be kept clean and pure. We are just a side beneficiary of their work. Amazon is more expensive (I ordered there once), so I would deal directly with a marine supplier or with Startron directly. Go where diesel boats lurk.
>
>  
> brian from laverne, ca
> Mary (195K)  Martha (280K)
> 1983 w123 300d's
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Roland Hyatt <wrolandhyattjr@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 8:02 AM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: 83;; 300 SD engine miss
>
>
>  
> Nate:
>
> There's some confusion about Startron. It seems there are 2 versions.
> There is the Starbrite enzyme fuel treatment and a tank cleaner from
> Amazon and another, much more expensive that I bought at NAPA. To which
> one are you referring? There is a Startron and a Soltron. There is a
> lot of flap about which is which and whether or not they are the same
> thing - all having to do with licensing, etc.. I didn't do enough
> research to get an answer. I don't know????
>
> Roland Hyatt
>

__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
.

__,_._,___
No comments:

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Lower oil cooler line

 

On 6/2/2012 10:49 AM, BStromsoe wrote:
> They are under (or near) filters where diesel fluid would have
> dripped, the power steering pump where ATF could have dripped, and
> other parts where motor oil could have been deposited.

If your injector bypass hoses (small ones) are wet, they need
replacing. They will get everything in the general area wet (with diesel).

--
Stan George Portland <<

__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
.

__,_._,___
No comments:

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Lower oil cooler line

 

With all the hulabaloo, I decided to take a look at my lines today. I noticed the fabric / rubber / plastic part of the lines were oily wet also. I am guessing (of course), that various fluids have dribbled over the years on those lines. They are under (or near) filters where diesel fluid would have dripped, the power steering pump where ATF could have dripped, and other parts where motor oil could have been deposited.

All to say, need to keep fluids away from hoses.
 
brian from laverne, ca
Mary (195K)  Martha (280K)
1983 w123 300d's
From: "audiolaw@aol.com" <audiolaw@aol.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2012 9:45 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Lower oil cooler line

 
Trish, 
 
    Remember a little while ago, I said take a breath and regain composure?  This is what happens when you do that.  Oil leaking from one of the oil cooler lines can flow backward and appear to be coming from any number of places. 
 
    Be greatful that it isn't the rear seal. 
 
    My 300SD got one of its oil cooler lines cut, while I was on a road trip.  YUCKY.  But not fatal. 
 
    There are a couple of things to deal with here: 
 
1)    Figure out how the line got slit.  It is POSSIBLE that it just aged out.  But before concluding that, make sure that you have considered as many alternative possiblilities as you can.  You don't want a repeat of this. 
 
2)    See if you can do a temporary patch until you can replace the hose.  On mine, out on the freeway several hundred miles from home, I fashioned a patch with a piece of rubber gasket material, held in place by a hose clamp.  Since I use synthetic oil, the patch wanted to slide away every time I tried to tighten the hose clamp.  I probably worked at it for more than an hour.  But finally got it clamped in position over the sliced spot.  (Mine got sliced from contact with the power steering pulley - don't ask how I got it out of position to let that happen!) 
 
2.a)    You might try wrapping it with "emergency repair tape".  There's stuff, I can't recall its brand name (Miracle Tape, or something), that is self adhesive tape made of plastic.  It gets used in the film industry for all sorts of emergency repairs on hoses and pipes and cables.  Clean the surface and wrap the tape starting inches away from the slit, going over the slit and on for inches.  Then double back on itself for a couple of layers.  Single layer is supposed to hold 900 lbs of pressure.  Once on, it NEVER comes off. 
 
3)    Replace the hose when you can.  There is one EXTREMELY important part of this operation.  The two oil cooler hoses (one feed, one return) go down on the lower left side of the engine, where they are held to the engine, near the engine mount, by a simple bracket.   
 
    The bracket is ESSENTIAL.  Do not skip it.  Do not lose it.  Do not leave the hoses without it, thinking, "I'll get back to is someday".  The bracket keeps the hoses from beating themselves to death with engine vibration.  If the previous owner left the bracket off, that's your problem.  Go to the junk yard, or call Tom Hansen at the Classics Center and get the bracket before you do the job.  The bracket is held on by a single bolt, if I recall. 
 
    To replace the hoses or either of them, you MUST raise the engine off of the left side motor mount.  When you get the new hose, you will discover that it has metal sections and rubber sections.  You MUST keep it in the shape that it comes in - DO NOT bend the metal sections. 
 
    Even if you could bend the metal sections, you couldn't fit the hose in place without lifting the engine off of the motor mount.  This is an indication that the Benz engineers saw this as a low wear part, never intending it to be replaced, except in the case of accidental damage. 
 
    Lifting the engine is NOT such a big deal (remember to unbolt the motor mount and the damping shock absorber FIRST.  It may sound intimidating, but it really isn't so bad. 
 
    DO NOT DO THIS JOB unless the car is up on jack stands on a very solid surface (not gravel, sand, dirt or grass). 
 
    This IS something that you can do in your garage or driveway, but will be easier if you can put the car on a lift.  Once you get a good look at the hose routing, and a good view from underneath, you will see that it is actually pretty straightforward. 
 
    IF you can't find a cause for the failure, then assume that the hose "aged out" and split.  THEN assume that the other hose is the same age and maybe the same condition.  Since you don't want to do this job twice, get both hoses and replace them at  the same time. 
 
Cordially, 
Tom
 
 
In a message dated 6/1/2012 10:25:39 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com writes:
 
Yep that's what it is.  Kevin climbed under there, wiped everything down, started it up and watched it leak.  Big slit in it. 

Ordered a new one from AutohauzAZ, the best price we found via a massive search.  Free shipping too!  Hopefully it'll ship today.  When I can afford it I'll get the upper hose. The brakes are next.  A/C?????  Oh well.  It's been 4 yrs, what's one more blistering summer in N TX without?  At least I have it in the house!

-- '81 300SD
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com


__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
.

__,_._,___
No comments:

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Lower oil cooler line

 

The oil cooler line is an ADDITIONAL OIL LEAK.

The ORIGINAL LEAK, WHICH STILL LEAKS,  IS THE REAR MAIN.  I KNOW FOR A FACT.  THE CAR HAS BEEN ON A LIFT MORE THAN ONCE. WE HAVE WIPED THE OIL OFF AND WATCHED WHERE IT CAME FROM.

The rear main leak was actually under control, enough for me to drive safely anywhere I wanted as long as I kept an eye on the dip stick, like any smart driver would do in any event.Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com

__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
.

__,_._,___
No comments:

Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: WAS: Rear Main Oil Seal leak NOW: Oil Cooler Line moisture

 

There are TWO oil lines going to/from the oil filter housing.  I've replaced my filter housing gasket twice:  First time because it was leaking, and the second time when I removed the injection pump (the filter housing had to come off to do this).  Both times, the oil cooler lines were undamaged, and reused.  I would question your mechanic's mechanikin' abilities if he is unable to remove the cooler lines from the filter housing without requiring new lines and cooler (which is mounted next to the radiator).

You could run an aftermarket cooler, sure.  I'd think it would be a royal PIA to do so, but, sure; why not?  You could even cap off the cooler line ports on the filter housing, and not run a cooler or cooler lines at all.  Most cars don't have engine oil coolers.  'Course, most cars don't run a half-million miles, either, so....

Mark in Lakewood, CO
From: "Boyd Wright" <bgthegreat@verizon.net>
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2012 4:43:49 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: WAS: Rear Main Oil Seal leak NOW: Oil Cooler Line moisture

 

Ken Bergsma on YouTube shows how to replace the gasket under the oil filter to stop oil leaks.  I have ask my mechanic if he could do it.  He told me that he would have to remove the oil line to the oil cooler.  That line brakes, 99% of the time when removing the oil filter housing causing the purchase of a new radiator and oil line.
Do any of you folks know if you can just add an after market oil cooler if it brakes?  Where can you install it?
   
Boyd
.

__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
.

__,_._,___
No comments: