Re: [diesel_mercedes] Nates new Mercedes.

 

Ooooo!  Me likee!  Seems like a lot of money, though....

Mark in Lakewood, CO

From: bgiovan@cavtel.net
To: "diesel mercedes" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 1, 2012 7:51:05 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Nates new Mercedes.

 

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Break down/picture of hand pump

 

It's this pn 2447010038 at autohausaz.com for the new pump model.
 
brian from laverne, ca
Mary (195K)  Martha (280K)
1983 w123 300d's

From: Trish Dougherty <purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, March 1, 2012 5:52 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Break down/picture of hand pump

 
I've been looking online but can't find any pictures of the hand pump.  Anyone know where I can find one? 

Kevin's already replaced the one on the car from the other motor.  Today he noticed a small gasket missing and replaced it.

We're still getting air bubbles.  We got the car running, but it won't idle, it conks out.  The last time it died it refused to start again.  We had the fuel tank lid off.  Gave up today.  He'll deal with it some more tomorrow.

--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Break down/picture of hand pump

 

The hand pumps are available from most of the parts houses if you do not want to grab one from a PAP car. The new ones look handy dandy, but I stick with the old white ones. I seem to only need one when I run out of fuel (twice in 10 years) or when I change the filters.
 
brian from laverne, ca
Mary (195K)  Martha (280K)
1983 w123 300d's

From: Trish Dougherty <purrfectharmonyfarm@wifi45.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, March 1, 2012 5:52 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Break down/picture of hand pump

 
I've been looking online but can't find any pictures of the hand pump.  Anyone know where I can find one? 

Kevin's already replaced the one on the car from the other motor.  Today he noticed a small gasket missing and replaced it.

We're still getting air bubbles.  We got the car running, but it won't idle, it conks out.  The last time it died it refused to start again.  We had the fuel tank lid off.  Gave up today.  He'll deal with it some more tomorrow.

--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com



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[diesel_mercedes] Break down/picture of hand pump

 

I've been looking online but can't find any pictures of the hand pump.  Anyone know where I can find one? 

Kevin's already replaced the one on the car from the other motor.  Today he noticed a small gasket missing and replaced it.

We're still getting air bubbles.  We got the car running, but it won't idle, it conks out.  The last time it died it refused to start again.  We had the fuel tank lid off.  Gave up today.  He'll deal with it some more tomorrow.

--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Car wont shift into park

 

Yeah, can't remember who performed that, but I remember painting it on the snow shovel I gave my tenants as an indication that I didn't plan to clear the snow alone.

On Thu, Mar 1, 2012 at 11:39 AM, max_stemple <jasperezra@gmail.com> wrote:
 

The Beatles, thats a easy one. How about this one.
'Were all bozos on this bus"
Max
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "c24052000" <jcrcpa@...> wrote:
>
> plasticy bushings? I'm having a flashback....
>
> "Picture yourself on a train in a station,
> With plasticine porters with looking glass ties.
> Suddenly someone is there at the turnstile,
> The girl with kaleidoscope eyes."
>
> Ok I'm back.
>
> Chuck
>
>


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[diesel_mercedes] A/C

 

This was in Rock Auto's newsletter I get and is worth your time:

"The A/C compressor is the heart of the A/C system. The compressor pumps a mixture of refrigerant liquid and compressor lubricant from the condenser mounted in front of the engine's radiator into a receiver-drier (or accumulator) that acts as a reservoir and removes any water before it can form corrosive hydrochloric acid. From there the liquid is metered by an expansion valve (or orifice tube) into the evaporator in the car's interior. The refrigerant turns to gas in the evaporator, which cools the car's interior. The compressor sucks the hot refrigerant gas out of the other end of the evaporator and pumps it back to the condenser where the gas cools to liquid and the cycle starts all over again.

The A/C compressor is the moving part so when it stops moving it might seem reasonable to blame it for a failed A/C system. It is not that simple. There are always reasons for a broken compressor. A common reason is contaminants in the A/C plumbing. Contaminants cause clogs that starve the A/C compressor for lubricant. If those contaminants are not removed, then they will be there to destroy the next A/C compressor. Even if the A/C compressor simply dies of old age, it is likely to spew contaminants into the A/C plumbing during its death throes. It is logical to always assume there are contaminants in a failed system that need to be eliminated.

Common places for contaminants and clogs to collect are the receiver-drier or accumulator (remember, this part also prevents acid formation) and the expansion valve or orifice tube. The A/C compressor manufacturer warranties (ACDelco, Denso, Four Seasons, Motorcraft, Spectra Premium, etc.) specify that those parts must be replaced along with the compressor. On some cars it might be hard to get to parts like the expansion valve if it is buried behind the dash, but the parts still need to be replaced. Nobody wants to do a plumbing job twice.

Clogs may also occur in other parts of the system such as the condenser or the hoses. The common modern "dual pass" condenser has two or more routes for the refrigerant to pass through. Pressure readings might indicate adequate flow through the condenser, but partially clogged paths could be harboring contaminants waiting to cause future damage. Refrigerant lines might contain noise mufflers or filters that become clogged. Advanced diagnostic work, such as using a pyrometer to measure excessive temperature drops from one end of a hose to the other, can reveal clogs. It is still usually best to "err on the side of replacing too many parts."

There are other reasons for a compressor to not get the lubricant it needs. Lubricant circulates with the refrigerant. A refrigerant leak also is a lubricant leak. On the other hand, too much refrigerant (overcharging) can lead to the lubricant pooling in the condenser or drier rather than flowing through the compressor. A/C compressor manufacturer warranties specify that the A/C system must be properly flushed, the correct type and amount of lubricant and refrigerant must be installed and other vehicle specific requirements.

While planning an A/C repair be sure to read the "Info" Info button pages in the RockAuto catalog to learn more about the A/C parts and A/C system in your vehicle. The A/C compressor manufacturer warranties are also accessible from the Info pages and are surprisingly easy to read and a good source of information. Of course, also read any installation instructions that come with A/C parts. Everybody wants the A/C repair to be a success the first time!"

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Car wont shift into park

 

The Beatles, thats a easy one. How about this one.
'Were all bozos on this bus"
Max
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "c24052000" <jcrcpa@...> wrote:
>
> plasticy bushings? I'm having a flashback....
>
> "Picture yourself on a train in a station,
> With plasticine porters with looking glass ties.
> Suddenly someone is there at the turnstile,
> The girl with kaleidoscope eyes."
>
> Ok I'm back.
>
> Chuck
>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Now air bubbles coming from tank!

 

Tell him to keep pumping until he is sure the main filter is full. I changed the fuel filters last weekend, and the car started and died. Then would not start again. Had to pump for a couple of minutes to be sure the spin on filter was full. I recharged the battery to 90% and then I let it sit overnight. Started right up the next morning. Better yet unscrew the main filter and fill it with fuel, then pump to prime.
Chuck
84 300sd

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Trish Dougherty <purrfectharmonyfarm@...> wrote:
>
> I would assume we got air in there when he blew the line out. No he hasn't
> cracked the injectors...will do tomorrow. He used the hand pump to fill up
> the clear filter after he blew it out.
>
> Thanks everyone...more good ideas. We'll be trying them out at some point
> tomorrow.
>
> On Wed, Feb 29, 2012 at 5:21 PM, Stan George <ssgkag@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > You might have introduced air when you blew the filter clean and not got
> > all of it out. Have you cracked each injector line and pumped the
> > primer until there are no more bubbles. Assume you did this with the
> > primary fuel filter also.
> > --
> > Stan George Portland <<
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Trish Dougherty
> PurrFect Harmony Farm
> Ennis, TX
> http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Now air bubbles coming from tank!

 

OK.  You have the dreaded whoosh.  So a quick temp. fix is to take off the
gasket on the fuel cap.  Perm.fix is to clean the vent.  It is located near your
left rear tire.  Looks like a little dongle at the end of a hose.  It goes
nowhere just ends at the dongle.  Trace back and disconnect from the tank.  It's
all under the car.  You can also check the fuel line at this time to see if it
is running clear and free.  Have a bucket to catch fuel.  If you are tricky you
can get in above the tank and check but I've found the problem below before. 
Get any crud out of the lower hose.  Test by blowing through and clear.  No more
woosh with the gasket back on.  Problem solved.  Lawrence Rhodes...

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Relays, What am I Missing

 

I know a faulty ignition switch will mess with gauges,and starter.I replaced mine.But my  relays never get that hot.

--- On Thu, 3/1/12, williamc <wmcowart@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: williamc <wmcowart@yahoo.com>
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Relays, What am I Missing
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, March 1, 2012, 6:40 AM

 
84 SD 300, a number of electrical problems developed. It started with the speed o meter not working, then the fuel, oil presure, and temperature guage.And the off climate controll button stopped working. And to add to the problem, the starter sometimes will not work, until after a cooldown period, or until something is wiggled, just right.
The starter, I had tested against a new one, it is good. The instruments, I replaced with a salavaged one , and now all the instruments work. Except for the climate controll switch. I have another one, I hope is good. The starter, I need to check the nutrual switch on the transmission. I hear it click, but will not spin. Yesterday, I moved the shift lever a couple of times, and it worked.
During all the trouble shooting, looking for wires shorting out, I noticed the two rear, closest to the driver, silver relays get very hot,I mean real hot. while running the vechile. I aquired a number of used ones and have tried switching them out. The other two remain cool. If I am thinking clearly, this represents a short some place. The only thing that does not work, if these two relays are removed is seat adjustment and windows. Everything else still works.
The bonding wire is on the starter to transmission bolts, but I have not looked at the other end of it yet. Is there another bonding wire or grounding wire I migh be missing on this car ? Will the key synoliod cause a short to heat these relays while running, if it is bad?
is there a master relay on his car, as there are two black relays at the real of the fuse box? But they are not warming up. I suspect, looking at the fuse location chart in the fuse box, as it is not correct, this car has been rewired at some point, or the chart was changed, but it does not show the relays.
Electrical can be illusive, but obviously I am missing something, any information appriciated . Bill C

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: 240D Update

 

I use an 8" piece (or however long you need it) of 1/4" fuel hose and loop a wire coat hanger through it twice around to make a muffler hanger donut. When you get it the right size, cut the ends of the wire to leave 4" extra, fold the two ends across each other to link them, and tuck the ends back into the hose. Works fine and you can make it the exact size you need. Doesn't rattle. I thought I had a photo of one in the photo section but couldn't find it just now. Maybe you can figure it out from the description...

Jim

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[diesel_mercedes] Relays, What am I Missing

 

84 SD 300, a number of electrical problems developed. It started with the speed o meter not working, then the fuel, oil presure, and temperature guage.And the off climate controll button stopped working. And to add to the problem, the starter sometimes will not work, until after a cooldown period, or until something is wiggled, just right.
The starter, I had tested against a new one, it is good. The instruments, I replaced with a salavaged one , and now all the instruments work. Except for the climate controll switch. I have another one, I hope is good. The starter, I need to check the nutrual switch on the transmission. I hear it click, but will not spin. Yesterday, I moved the shift lever a couple of times, and it worked.
During all the trouble shooting, looking for wires shorting out, I noticed the two rear, closest to the driver, silver relays get very hot,I mean real hot. while running the vechile. I aquired a number of used ones and have tried switching them out. The other two remain cool. If I am thinking clearly, this represents a short some place. The only thing that does not work, if these two relays are removed is seat adjustment and windows. Everything else still works.
The bonding wire is on the starter to transmission bolts, but I have not looked at the other end of it yet. Is there another bonding wire or grounding wire I migh be missing on this car ? Will the key synoliod cause a short to heat these relays while running, if it is bad?
is there a master relay on his car, as there are two black relays at the real of the fuse box? But they are not warming up. I suspect, looking at the fuse location chart in the fuse box, as it is not correct, this car has been rewired at some point, or the chart was changed, but it does not show the relays.
Electrical can be illusive, but obviously I am missing something, any information appriciated . Bill C

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