Nate, once again you star. Am planning on ripping my panel off next week to fix the window.
The tip about how to use the sledge hammer and pry bar are invaluable <G>.
Tony
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Nate" <vwnate1@...> wrote:
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> O-kay then , let's give this a try .
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> I removed the interior handles and mirror knob , then I gently and carefully pried the door panel away from the door proper , begining along the bottom and working my fingers arond to the ends and up wards . once I had all the clips popped loose I lifted the _rear_ edge of it up until the top edge began to release from it's vertical clips , then you twist the entire panel counter - clockise a tiny bit as you raise it 1/2" or so , this releases the front plastic clip holding the map pocket into place . (often broken , now you know why)
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> Set the panel aside and raise up the plastic vapor barrier sheet from the rear lower edge only *just* enough to access the latch screws , pop out the black plastic oval cover in the door skin & unscrew two # 2 philips screws holding the rear of the exterior handle , peer in through the access hole stamped in the inside of the door and locate the # 2 phillips screw holding the front of the handle in , remove it and push the handle forward , it'll pop loose , set it aside .
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> There are two 3MM locking rods connecting the inside handle and vacuum lock to the latch , there's a tiny sheet matal clip you press upwards on to release it , it'll prolly pop off and fall either inside the door or to the ground where you thoughtfully laid out a light colored old towel or sheet to prevent various tiny screws & clips from bouncing , never to be seen again .
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> Once the clips are removed , the rod can be pushed out , one of the rods hooks in and con't be removed until the latch has been unscrewed and is free to wobble about .
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> There are _four_ phillips screws holding the latch to the door , remove and set aside then work your left hand in through the door skin and your right hand in through the hole where the latch was , wirggle it thisa-way and that , as long as the window is fully up you can push it in a little bit then drop it down and inch or so , then you'll have to wriggle it as youu twist it behind the welded in rear window run channel ~ it's tricky , sort of like those Chinese Puzzles that we had when I were a lad but when you get it * Just So * , it'll easily slip out and plummet to the bottom of the door where you can remove it .
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> Match your new latch to the old one and ascetain that the door handle's long lock rod has a bow tie shaped thing on the very end of it , I found mine in the bottom of the door along with the broken platic tip off the funnel shaped thing that connects the outer handle to the latch proper ~ this is all fairly delicate so be gentle as you test fit the lock shaft into the funnel , and twist it , the funnel has a tip on it that *must* move a flat stamped thing with a slot in it , for the key to lock or unlock the passenger side door .
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> BOTH parts (handle shaft's metal bowtie end $ plastic funnels's tip) were broken on this car , it seems Mercedes wants you to use the key when you install the exterior handle , you must needs twist the key a bit as you gently guide the handle into place and use your eyes , flashlight and third hand to ensure that long shaft goes into the funnel shaped piece rather than dangle tantalizingly just below it .
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> Once you think you have the handle properly installed , hold it in place whilst you insert one of the rear screws then test the key a few times to ensure the lock button goes up and down O.K. , then open the rear door for safety and close and open the front door several times , testing the key's ability to lock/un lock as well as the outer handle's ability to open the door as the handle has a tang that must needs go _behind_ the latch arm , as you're happliy lining up all the other parts.....
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> It works ? good . now , loosen the rear handle screw and install the other two screws , then tighten the rear screws first , followed by the hidden forward inner screw , re attch the actuating rod and it's clip , you're nearly there now . clean up your hands and gently lower the plastic vapor barrier sheet , it is *very* important and often gone missing , you can easily cut one out of clear plasic to suit , re install the inner trim panel , remembering to hold the front edge in first so that flusherginner map pocket clip hooks on the door's cutaway , then drop it down whist alinging the upper edge to grab firmly .
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> Press the lower edge's plastic clips into thier holes , usually a few snap off but no worries .
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> Install the three arm rest screws loosely , then tighten the lower two firmly and finally the upper one that's always lose , I find using spare exterior door handle screws with the attached flat washers , holds this better so it won't come loose again my folks pulling it to close the door . you can use any old 6MM flat washer , DO NOT use a start nor split washer here .
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> Re - install the other trim screws and you're good to go .
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> This is really the short form here , it sounds hard but is mostly a mater of working slowly and deliberately , *gently* above all else .
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> I had several different 2 Philips screw drivers and discovered one fit the screws *much* better than did my old Craftsman , loose fitting Phillips scrwdrivers tend to strip out the heads more easly .
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> Sorry about the crappy photos , I have them saved in my ipod thing so if anyone in So. Cal. knws how to down load them better , let's do that .
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> -Nate
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