Re: [diesel_mercedes] w123's

 

Brian,

Thanks for providing us with access to this manual.

I have already learned that there are two different pencil type glow plugs.  If the nut at the top (that doesn't come of) is aluminum, it is the regular pencil plug.  If the nut is brass, it is a quick start plug.

Bobby

On Wed, Dec 28, 2011 at 10:30 AM, brian's 83 300d's <bstromsoe@yahoo.com> wrote:
 

Merry Christmas to all of you

http://www.toddcomputer.com/Mercedez-manual/300D-repair-manual.html

brian from la verne




--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory

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[diesel_mercedes] Oops Got right name for part - Control Pressure Rod

 

Kevin called it a Kick Down Rod, then opened the link Brian sent to the list. He's asking about the Control Pressure Rod. It's too long and hits a tube or rod on the firewall.

Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis,TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
txt: 972-921-9527

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[diesel_mercedes] Got the turbo motor in today...and out...and back in! Now comes the fun

 

So we got the motor in today. Then back out when we found out that the motor mount arms had to be switched from my old motor. Now it's back in! We have questions...

The starter cable is different. My car did not have a starter switch on the fender well. The cable from the turbo motor starter has 2 extra wires. We can't use the one from my former motor because it runs too close to the exhaust pipe.

The kick down rod hits on a rod or tube by the firewall and won't go back any further. Why? I have a pic of this, working on the upload.

OH the bracket for the bottom of the engine shock on the body cross member touches the oil pan. Cut it off?

I'm uploading pics from today.

--
Trish Dougherty
PurrFect Harmony Farm
Ennis, TX
http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : ' Internal ' Gasket Sealers

 

I used 'Copper Kote' on my $500 Toyota pu I fixed last year, which had a
blown head gasket. Runs well now, though now I'm up to $1100 on the
truck, including a reupholstered seat. Great for carrying shit (horse
manure) and other stuff I don't want to put in the MB.

Just got back from a 1000mile trip up to NoCal and back, in my MB.
Yosemite has no snow, very weird; the back woods of Napa and Sonoma were
nice, though I hope I didn't bugger up the alignment on those bumpy
roads. Some friends up there have a 240D, so I parked right beside it,
so the cars could chat, while we hiked through the redwoods

I'll figure the MPGs later. The car ran great.

Rob
'85 300D
Garden Grove, CA
==

On 12/28/11 8:28 AM, diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com wrote:
> 12a. Re : ' Internal ' Gasket Sealers
> Posted by: "Nate"vwnate1@yahoo.com vwnate1
> Date: Wed Dec 28, 2011 8:09 am ((PST))
>
>
> He thought you had removed the cylinder head , in non Mercedes applications , many Mechanics use a special spray on sealer called
> " Coper Kote " made by Permatex , it is one of the very few good gasket sealers , specialy made for problematic cylinder head gaskets .
>
> Not to worry , your Mercedes was properly designed and built (unlike say my 1959 Nash Metropolitan that has a reputation for leaky head gaksets) so you should not need (nor ever use) gasket in a tube or spray can .
>
> Nate R. is a long time Machinist& Hot Rodder so he appoaches the job a bit differently . not better nor worse , just differently .
>
> -Nate
> Trish wrote:
>> >
>> > HUH?
>> >
>> > On Tue, Dec 27, 2011 at 6:06 PM, Nate Rector<tccservice111@...>wrote:
>> >
>>> > > **
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > > shit I thought she was sealing it internaling
>>> > >
>>> > >
>>> > >
>> >

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : Vacuum System Diagnosis

 


Chip ;

Look at the various colored (? Ethnically Diverse ?) plastic vacuum pipes where they come out of the firewall in a bunch ~

Green is for the HVAC .

Yellow is for the Central Locking system , cap it off for now .

Brown (there's two) is for the engine shutoff , they both go to the key switch and you'll prolly find the 1" long rubber hose bits that connect the brown pipes to the back of the key switch under the dashboard , are soft & blubbery , easy to pull off , this won't work so _CAREFULLY_ replace them both as well as any other short bits of rubber hose you find that connect the various plastic pipes .

Blue is for the automatic seat back locks, they're bad so cap them off and forget about them for now .

Some years have a black plastic pipe connected to the yellow two way vacuum valve near the brake booster , if so it goes to a vacuum resivoir inside the driver's side fender where you cannot see nor touch it without removing the fender ~ it takes a _LOT_ of vacuum to fill this resivoir so don't just cap it off until you're _sure_ it's leaking & not holding vacuum .

The other brown plastic pipe connects to the back of the injection pump , _CAREFULLY_ disconnect it then add a long bit of NEW vacuum hose to the IP , start the engine and apply vacuum to the open end of the hose (I just suck on it) , the engine should *immediately* shut off ~ if not , or if the IP's vacuum chamber doesn't hold vacuum , you've found out why it doesn't shut off , that part (hard to find new these days) will need replacing before your engine will ever shut off with the key .

By taking the time to slowly check all these and repair leaks and old hose bits and by pass the seat locks & central locking , you should be able to get firm shifting and nearly *instant* engine shutdown .

-Nate
Chip wrote:
>
> I have been at it all day on my vacuum system and may have fixed a couple of things. The vacuum line replacement with new rubber is certainly a lot of fun on the transmission modulator. Is there another vacuum hook up to the transmission other than this one?
>
> On to other issues. Check valves, I don't have two but three. My first is a green valve that then branches out to two yellow valves, one with 1 outlet, the other with two. If the green one is a check valve, it is bad. The two prong yellow check valve is the one that supports the yellow line and the yellow and black line. The one feeding the vacuum tank is holding vacuum, the other leaks down quickly. I have not gotten into my drivers side door to sort that one out.
>
> I have a Auto Zone knock off to replace the green check valve one I confirm from this board that it is indeed a check valve. I'll order the correct part after I figure out from you guys what it is.
>
> And then there is the blue line, what does it do? And which one is the one that shuts down the ignition. That's the one that I most need to find. I am not able to shut my car off at all anymore unless I open the hood, and even then it is very difficult to get it stalled.
>
> If someone here could point me to a good post or sight that goes through all of the vacuum line diagrams that would be great.
>
> Thanks in advance to some references or help; beyond just the door lock system. I have Tom's book on door lock repair and I think I can get that part in hand.
>
> Chip
> Houston
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re : VAPOR coming out the defroster vents. Fogging windshield.

 

On 12/28/2011 10:52 AM, Nate wrote:

 


Steam perhaps ? certainly NOT smoke or your car would be ON FIRE ! .

I assume the windshield is now covered in greasy stuff ? .

Alumaseal is worth a try but you may well need a new heater core .

Using the " EC " button will reduce the fan speed to a whisper .

-Nate
Lawrence wrote:
>
> Well I think you all know what causes this(coolant leak). However I have heard
> it's a bit of a problem fixing. O rings are involved. We have towels over the
> vents now and don't use the defroster. BTW. The buttons are all too much.
> Even low. They all suffocate my wife. I'm OK with them but she is not so I
> think they still don't work well. Should I try Alumiseal? Lawrence Rhodes.....
>

If you can't shut off the heat, hopefully you can at least open the windows.

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Vacuum Help

 



Brian,

Thanks for the pictures, I had looked at them before, but just in passing. Big help, my bad green vacuum check valve has been in the wrong place in my loop of hose.

I still could not get the detail on the placement of hose into the two yellow check valves from the photo's. That area of the car would almost be impossible to get a good shot of, perhaps someone can point me to a vacuum diagram for more help.

I appreciate this quick help, at least I can get part of it back together.

Chip

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Vacuum Help

 

I forget what you are driving, but if it is a w123 300d, here are pics with everything in the right places.

http://tinyurl.com/ctyohh4

 
brian from laverne, ca
Mary (195K)  Martha (280K)
1983 w123 300d's

From: Chip <czulli@gmail.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2011 1:01 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Vacuum Help

 
I have been at it all day on my vacuum system and may have fixed a couple of things. The vacuum line replacement with new rubber is certainly a lot of fun on the transmission modulator. Is there another vacuum hook up to the transmission other than this one?

On to other issues. Check valves, I don't have two but three. My first is a green valve that then branches out to two yellow valves, one with 1 outlet, the other with two. If the green one is a check valve, it is bad. The two prong yellow check valve is the one that supports the yellow line and the yellow and black line. The one feeding the vacuum tank is holding vacuum, the other leaks down quickly. I have not gotten into my drivers side door to sort that one out.

I have a Auto Zone knock off to replace the green check valve one I confirm from this board that it is indeed a check valve. I'll order the correct part after I figure out from you guys what it is.

And then there is the blue line, what does it do? And which one is the one that shuts down the ignition. That's the one that I most need to find. I am not able to shut my car off at all anymore unless I open the hood, and even then it is very difficult to get it stalled.

If someone here could point me to a good post or sight that goes through all of the vacuum line diagrams that would be great.

Thanks in advance to some references or help; beyond just the door lock system. I have Tom's book on door lock repair and I think I can get that part in hand.

Chip
Houston



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[diesel_mercedes] Vacuum Help

 

I have been at it all day on my vacuum system and may have fixed a couple of things. The vacuum line replacement with new rubber is certainly a lot of fun on the transmission modulator. Is there another vacuum hook up to the transmission other than this one?

On to other issues. Check valves, I don't have two but three. My first is a green valve that then branches out to two yellow valves, one with 1 outlet, the other with two. If the green one is a check valve, it is bad. The two prong yellow check valve is the one that supports the yellow line and the yellow and black line. The one feeding the vacuum tank is holding vacuum, the other leaks down quickly. I have not gotten into my drivers side door to sort that one out.

I have a Auto Zone knock off to replace the green check valve one I confirm from this board that it is indeed a check valve. I'll order the correct part after I figure out from you guys what it is.

And then there is the blue line, what does it do? And which one is the one that shuts down the ignition. That's the one that I most need to find. I am not able to shut my car off at all anymore unless I open the hood, and even then it is very difficult to get it stalled.

If someone here could point me to a good post or sight that goes through all of the vacuum line diagrams that would be great.

Thanks in advance to some references or help; beyond just the door lock system. I have Tom's book on door lock repair and I think I can get that part in hand.

Chip
Houston

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : Gasket sealer

 


Rocker _BOX_ , AKA : Valve Cover , that alloy top engine cover piece you remove to adjust the valves .

Nate
Trish wrote:
>
> What's the rocker bottom?
>
> On Wed, Dec 28, 2011 at 10:04 AM, Nate <vwnate1@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> >
> > In general ;
> >
> > You DO NOT use gasket sealer on these engines .
> >
> > If you've smeared it anywhere near the oil filter or rocker box , STOP !
> > GO BACK AND REMOVE IT NOW .
> >
> > -Nate
> > Trish wrote:
> > >
> > > Is there any particular gasket sealer we should use for diesel?
> > >
> > > (OK, now my account is really weirded out. I thought I set it up to send
> > group stuff to my phone. It won't take it from either phone or my purrfect
> > harmony email. I can only post from yahoo groups. Arrrgh! Gotta go back and
> > check my settings again.)
> > >
> > > Trish Dougherty
> > > PurrFect Harmony Farm
> > > Ennis, TX
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Trish Dougherty
> PurrFect Harmony Farm
> Ennis, TX
> http:/purrfectharmonyfarm.intuitwebsites.com
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re : ' Internal ' Gasket Sealers

 

Hey Nate yes I try to fix things the easest way.There are some gasket sealers also for cracked blocks that may work.I say may.If compression blowing coolant is too strong,nothing will work except a tear down.
 

From: Nate <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2011 11:09 AM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re : ' Internal ' Gasket Sealers

 

He thought you had removed the cylinder head , in non Mercedes applications , many Mechanics use a special spray on sealer called
" Coper Kote " made by Permatex , it is one of the very few good gasket sealers , specialy made for problematic cylinder head gaskets .

Not to worry , your Mercedes was properly designed and built (unlike say my 1959 Nash Metropolitan that has a reputation for leaky head gaksets) so you should not need (nor ever use) gasket in a tube or spray can .

Nate R. is a long time Machinist & Hot Rodder so he appoaches the job a bit differently . not better nor worse , just differently .

-Nate
Trish wrote:
>
> HUH?
>
> On Tue, Dec 27, 2011 at 6:06 PM, Nate Rector <tccservice111@...>wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > shit I thought she was sealing it internaling
> >
> >
> >
>



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[diesel_mercedes] Re : Hunting Party, What is that car???

 


Richard Gere had a thing for Mercedes Coupes as he drove them in several of his movies (including the SL he destroyed in " Cossroad ").

Mostly , W-123 300CE's , these being the gasoline version with the powerful if thirsty M-110 engine , they were popular rich folks Hot Rods back when new .

My central locking , doesn't work .

I really should go in and fix it but instead I fixed the central locking in cluding the truck and gas flap , on SWMBO's clean 1982 240D , she's happy , this makes me happy .

-Nate
Chip wrote:
>
>
> Trish,
>
> It is a 230 CE, they are the gas version of the w123 coupe that several of us have on this site.
>
> As I recall, it was a really pretty red coupe, who's doors opened instantly with an electronic opener when Richard rushed to get into the car.
>
> This is unlike any of our coupes who either won't lock to begin with or will need to be opened by the key, one door at a time, but certainly not open with a key-less entry system in your pocket.
>
> I have actually never even seen the gas version of the w123 coupe. I think they were made from 1978 until about 1985.
>
> Others on the board will know more about this but they will lie about how perfectly their door lock system works.
>
> Chip
> Houston
>

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