[diesel_mercedes] Re : center console window switches

 


Sid ;

Remove the ashtray by depressing the midle steel flat spring & tipping it out to-wards you , then set it aside , look in the cavity , you'll see two # 2 Phillips screws , remove them and set aside , *gently* withdraw the ash tray holder noticing there is an EXTREMLY DELICATE plastic plug on it's left side , unplug this and set aside the holder .

Now , gently push the console piece rearwards 1" and the easy to break hidden plastic pin holding the down turned rear edge , will slip loose , allowing you to raise the entire console cover up 2" or so , try not to flex it as flexing causes the wood veneer to crack .

Peer in underneath with a flashlight and notice each switch has spring clips on both leading & trailing edges , you squeeze both clips then *gently* work the switches upwards through the holes in the cover .

If the wires are too short , once you've lifted the switch up past the spring clips , stop and use a plastic knife between the bottom of the switch and the top of the black plastic plug to pry the wires & plug off , then simply lift the switches up and out .

Now you're ready to clean out the switches using " DE OXIT " from the radio supply store or other Electro - Contact Cleaner , _NOT_ brake cleaner , carby cleaner , De Greaser or (God forbid) WD40 ! .

Using the wrong chemical here will ruin the switch and they're $45 EACH new .

I hope this is helpful .

-Nate
Sid wrote:
>
> My '85 300 SD windows have been a problem. It was suggested that there are a couple small screws holding the rear of the console cover in place. Nope nowhere to be found. I havn't gotten in the backseat and looked at the rear or the console yet though......but they are not in the trailing edge of the panel with the switches in it.
> Sid, near Niagara Falls
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : vacuum reservoir

 


The plastic stud thing has a pin in the center of it , kinda tricky to pull out , once you do , the expanded part you cannot see , collapses and make it fairly easy to work out by wiggling .

DO NOT loose the pin ! .

I'd not fool with the vacuum resivoir until testing it by applying vacuum to the solid yellow plastic pipe underneath the right front floor mat .

It , as well as any other yellow pipe you test there (there's a bunch in 'Y' connectors) should hold 15" of vacuum for more than 10 minutes .

FWIW , if every thing is *perfect* it'll hold 20" of vacuum for about a WEEK .

-Nate
Stan wrote:
>
> How do you remove the vacuum reservoir from under the rear glass? It
> appears to be held in place by a stud with a washer on it but it is not
> a screw head.
> --
> Stan George Portland <<
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : Cold Startin'

 


RIGHT NOW stop whatever you're doing (even if it's midnight) and drive to the Truck Stop out on The Interstate and buy a quart bottle of " DIESEL 911 " and dump it in the tank before your car becomes un startable .

Do the valve adjust ASAP too ! .

Remember : before you take anythng apart you'll need the special wrenches Mark of this list) , a set of feeler gauges that have .004" & .014" blades in them , I *HIGHLY* suggest getting ' stepped ' feeler gauges , these have the end portion of the blade precision ground to the size marked on it , this makes it more or less fool prooof as you adjust so the end bit passes through but the larger stem part , must be forced in the gap .

You'll also need a valve cover gasket and maybe a few spare 8MM nuts & wave washers as they're easy to drop and come in super handy all the time anyways .

To prevent it from stalling , start the engine FIRST then fiddle with the radio , heater controls , lights , wipers , seatbelts etc. as this gives the engine a moment to wamr up a bit , then you can lightly keep the engine running with your right toes whilst you _firmly_ apply the brakes with the ball of your left foot ~ do not rev. the engine any higher than necessary to prevent stalling and always remember to wait for the tranny to release fully before changing from drive to reverse or vice-versa . this little bit will prevent you from having tranny troubles like everyone else you know does .

Didja put some heavy things in the trunk for extra traction yet ? ice is a nasty thing .

-Nate
Caitlin wrote:
>
> I *finally* got an opportunity today to test out all that good cold starting info passed around the board lately. I've been practicing "the drill" but honestly it's only been between low 30's up to the 40's here in the morning, and that's no fun. NOT that 26f is really cold, but I had my first "failure" using the regular drill.
>
> So I remembered someone posted that when it's really cold they cycle the plugs 3 times...so I did that and she fired RIGHT up, after my first 2 failures.
>
> I do have about 90% Biodiesel in the 1/3 full tank right now...totally meant to get it to about B50 before the cold snap. And didn't. But the drill is working for me, either way!
>
> Of course, my real problem with cold starting is the time it takes to "warm up"...and by that I mean...it takes what feels like a really long time before I can drive the car without it stalling. If I have to reverse first, it's even worse, but I digress.
>
> Is this most likely something that will change after my valve adjustment? Or a more likely culprit that I can chase? Oh, my coolant is also pretty shot and desperately in need of a change. (Luckily we do get warm winter days here, so it's on the "really soon" list)
>
> Anyway...thanks to all who chimed in with cold starting tips!
>
> Caitlin
> Santa Fe
>

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[diesel_mercedes] RE : Do NOT tailgate!

 


Glad to be of Service Catlin .

I may now reside in Sunny So. Cal. but Down East humor stays with me .

-Nate
Caitlin wrote:
>
> I got SUCH a kick out of this...really good belly laugh. Maybe the outer reflection of my inner gangster meeting my hatred of tailgating.
>
> PLUS...nice ride!
>
> Thanks Nate!
> Caitlin
>
> --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Nate <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Remember this : DO NOT piss off a Mercedes driver on a good bit of road ! .
> > NOTE : it's a Euro Spec. W-116 ! .
> >  
> > -Nate
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >  
> >  
> >
> >
> >  
> >  Beware - bad language! Pretty cool technique,
> > though....
> >
> > http://www.bitoffun.com/video_vault/do-not-tailgate.htm
> >
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : Storage Over Grass

 


Fair enough .

A 1952 Chrysler IMPERIAL COUPE ?! wow you are one lucky sonofagun ! .

I looked a a 1939 Imperical Coupe a couple years ago , sweet and cheap too , original Cali car but I have more old cars than I need now and I doubt it'd stay on the road with me slapping it through the curves going ful tilt boogie.....

-Nate
Mark wrote:
>
> Generally true, but, not always, especially around here. I have a '52 Imperial Coupe that sat for over 20-years in the weeds like these two may have. I got the old Chrysler FirePower hemi fired up, aired up the tires, and drove it away. It had sunk a good 4-inches or so into the Colorado clay. But, surface rust only, where the paint had worn away. It was, and still is, solid in the trunk, floorboards, etc. And that's not the only rust-free/low-rust "field find" I've purchased. Rust is not a real problem out on the High Plains. Hail and tornados, in that order, are. This is Dust Bowl country.
>
>
> Body-on-frame cars are less problematic. Unibody MBs are more rust-prone. Certainly, it would be interesting to see just how "relatively rust free" these guys are.
>
>
>
> 'Course, we're assuming these two cars have been out in the grass all that time, too.
>
>
> Mark

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[diesel_mercedes] Re : Electrical issues with my '91 350SD

 


De Nada , Anne ;

Somos A Tus Ordenes siempere =8-) .

Next time the hood is up , look closely at the metal strips on the fuses ~ if they're not yellow metal , they're JUNK and just waiting for a cold , dark, rainy night to do you dirt....

German car fuses are all color coded and *VERY* important to get the right color fuse in the correct location .

ANY German Partshaus or VW / Porsche / BMW / Audi etc. garage will sell you the correct , yellow metal fuses for $5 the pack of 5 , I'd get 10 each of each color :

White or black (8 ampere)

Red (16 ampere)

Blue (30 ampere)

Then disconnect the battery ground cable and replace them _ALL_ .

I do this to every German car I work on , it saves time and serious money as well in the long run .

Kudos to you for using Distilled water in your battery ! .

At 227,000 miles , your 350 ' Rod Bender ' engine has certainly been fixed or isn't going to bend it's rods so just remember those all important 3,000 mile _HOT_ oil & filter changes , using only thin fully synthetic oils .

Change the fuel filters and coolant every 12,000 miles or 12 months , add some Power Service ' Diesel Kleen ' or ' Diesel Power ' every few months to keep the fuel ystem clean and up to par , run the wheels off it .

Nice car , isn't it ? .

I ove my 1984 300CD Diesel Sports Coupe above all others I own or have owned and that's quite a few .

-Nate
Anne Wrote:
>
> Thank you to both Tom and Nate! Besos and abrazos!
>
> I have a 12v slow charger, so I got that done over night. My battery is 6 years old with a 7 year warranty. I popped the cell covers off and, lo & behold, pretty dang low on one side--so got them topped off with distilled water.
>
> Turned her over this afternoon without a problem and all of the gauges came on board!
>
> I agree with the voltage regulator as a good, next preventative step.
>
> Y'all are awesome! I don't have my Daddy to call up about these things anymore. And out here in the Four Corners area of New Mexico, there ain't no Mercedes-savvy mechanics. Esp. diesels.
>
> I'm the third owner of this 350SD and have 225K on it (of which 60K is mine). Not sure if the engine "fix" (did they ever really figure out the problem?) was done, though Mercedes of NA sent me a copy of all warranty work done on this car from '91 to '98. Hard to decipher the codes.
>
> Again, thanks for your coaching! Many Blessings, Anne
>
>
>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Have We Figured Out Our Demographic Yet?

 


Prolly not ;

I'm a transplanted Yankee Mechanic who tends to buy my vehicles from junkyards or someone who's getting ready to send them there....

I have no daughter and my son is a professional Racer .

-Nate
Chip Says :
>
> I have some hunches.....
>
> Chip
> Houston
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Block Heater

 


Yep ;

Your Mercedes Dealer or maybe The Classic Center , should be able to sell you just the cord part .

-Nate
Gene Asked :
>
> Hi It is getting cold here in Mo. so I thought that I ewould
> connect a block heater. When I looked under the 300d on the right
> side of block there is what looks like a plug in has two prongs and
> is threaded on the out side no wire hook up. If this is `the block heater than I think that I could modify a plug to fit and plug it into
> 110 elc. Does all this look about right? Thanks Gene
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: (unknown)

 

seconded!!

Henry

----- Original Message -----
From: "BStromsoe" <bstromsoe@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2011 9:31 PM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: (unknown)

Thank you Taran for setting this thing up, and still being around to monitor
it.

brian from la verne, ca

________________________________
From: Taran <taranreese@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 3, 2011 8:13 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: (unknown)

Sure Bobby, I just set his account to moderated so I can review his posts
before they hit the group. Louis is a long-time contributor here, but it
looks like his posts for the past several months have only been spam. I
think you guys are right and someone has hacked his account. Louis, if you
see this, you're still a member, you just need to change the password on
your email account so spammers can't use it.

Thanks gang,

Taran
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Bobby Yates Emory <liberty1@...>
wrote:
>
> Taran,
>
> Thanks.
>
> Mark thinks he has made some legitimate and worthwhile posts. I was only
> reacting to the spam, so if Lois gets the hijacking cleaned up or
> bypassed,
> I hope you will welcome him back.
>
> Bobby
>
> On Sat, Dec 3, 2011 at 3:09 AM, Taran <taranreese@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Done, thanks for the heads up.
> >
> > Taran
> >
> > Group Moderator
> >
> >
> > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Bobby Yates Emory <liberty1@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Can someone get rid of this spammer?
> > >
> > > On 12/3/11, Louis Companys <companys@> wrote:
> > > > http://www.fotografiasmonica.com/axyqxugpz.html
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Toward freedom,
> > >
> > > Bobby Yates Emory
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Toward freedom,
>
> Bobby Yates Emory
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: (unknown)

 

Thank you Taran for setting this thing up, and still being around to monitor it.
 
brian from la verne, ca

From: Taran <taranreese@yahoo.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 3, 2011 8:13 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: (unknown)

 
Sure Bobby, I just set his account to moderated so I can review his posts before they hit the group. Louis is a long-time contributor here, but it looks like his posts for the past several months have only been spam. I think you guys are right and someone has hacked his account. Louis, if you see this, you're still a member, you just need to change the password on your email account so spammers can't use it.

Thanks gang,

Taran
--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Bobby Yates Emory <liberty1@...> wrote:
>
> Taran,
>
> Thanks.
>
> Mark thinks he has made some legitimate and worthwhile posts. I was only
> reacting to the spam, so if Lois gets the hijacking cleaned up or bypassed,
> I hope you will welcome him back.
>
> Bobby
>
> On Sat, Dec 3, 2011 at 3:09 AM, Taran <taranreese@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > Done, thanks for the heads up.
> >
> > Taran
> >
> > Group Moderator
> >
> >
> > --- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Bobby Yates Emory <liberty1@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Can someone get rid of this spammer?
> > >
> > > On 12/3/11, Louis Companys <companys@> wrote:
> > > > http://www.fotografiasmonica.com/axyqxugpz.html
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Toward freedom,
> > >
> > > Bobby Yates Emory
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Toward freedom,
>
> Bobby Yates Emory
>



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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Cold Startin'

 

Brian, 
 
    Remember that Caitlin has a 126, instead of your 123s.  She's dealing with dual firewalls, each of which is better sealed than your 123 firewall.  In my 126 (81 300SD) I've never heard the glow plug relay kick off.  And my ears aren't all that bad. 
 
Caitlin, 
 
    Last time we communicated, you were still holding off on getting the valve adjustment done, or getting the tools to do it yourself.  You will find that the engine starts more easily and runs better when it has properly adjusted valves. 
 
Tom 
 
 
 
In a message dated 12/3/2011 4:58:57 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, bstromsoe@yahoo.com writes:
 

As a point of refinement - (for me anyway) - when I start my cars, I listen for the "clunk" when the glow plug relay has done its job and I start my engine without depressing the pedal at all because I have sufficiently hot glow plug temps. However, when I am brain dead and forget to listen for the clunk thereby shortcutting the cycle, then I must depress the pedal 1/2 to 2/3 of the way because I committed either a venal or mortal sin (I'm not Catholic so I don't know the vernacular). My sin is that by not listening for the clunk, I did not allow my glow plugs to heat the chambers up to an appropriate temperature to fire the fuel. Then I am reduced to cranking the engine in order to generate high enough cylinder temps to ignite the fuel via compression.
 
brian from la verne, ca

From: CaitlinDean <tinymachine@gmail.com>
To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 3, 2011 3:57 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Cold Startin'

 
I'm just following what it tells me in my manual (83 300SD)...re-iterated and made clear by the fine folks on this group :)

I originally thought it was the pump the throttle...now it's clear that they (manual) says to just push it down and hold...etc etc.

When it's warmer, I don't do that at all and she starts up fine. I'm hoping with the more work I get done on her, she'll cold start better n better...

Thought about asking Santa for a garage...but that seemed a bit big ;)

Caitlin
Santa Fe

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, Nate Rector <tccservice111@...> wrote:
>
> I have temps to zero,and I start normal no throttle as it floods the engine.
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...>
> To: "diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com" <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 3, 2011 6:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Cold Startin'
>
>
>
>  
>
> Well, truckers used to put a charcoal fire under their engines in cold weather. Personally, if I lived in 0-25F weather and had a garage, I would either have my block heater going, or a 100 watt work light sitting under my hood.  But, our LA cold is only 40F so I cycle the glow plugs once, listen for the clunk, and start right up with no fuss or muss.
>
>
> brian from la verne, ca
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: CaitlinDean <tinymachine@...>
> To: diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, December 3, 2011 12:15 PM
> Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Cold Startin'
>
>
>  
> I *finally* got an opportunity today to test out all that good cold starting info passed around the board lately. I've been practicing "the drill" but honestly it's only been between low 30's up to the 40's here in the morning, and that's no fun. NOT that 26f is really cold, but I had my first "failure" using the regular drill.
>
> So I remembered someone posted that when it's really cold they cycle the plugs 3 times...so I did that and she fired RIGHT up, after my first 2 failures.
>
> I do have about 90% Biodiesel in the 1/3 full tank right now...totally meant to get it to about B50 before the cold snap. And didn't. But the drill is working for me, either way!
>
> Of course, my real problem with cold starting is the time it takes to "warm up"...and by that I mean...it takes what feels like a really long time before I can drive the car without it stalling. If I have to reverse first, it's even worse, but I digress.
>
> Is this most likely something that will change after my valve adjustment? Or a more likely culprit that I can chase? Oh, my coolant is also pretty shot and desperately in need of a change. (Luckily we do get warm winter days here, so it's on the "really soon" list)
>
> Anyway...thanks to all who chimed in with cold starting tips!
>
> Caitlin
> Santa Fe
>



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[diesel_mercedes] center console window switches

 

My '85 300 SD windows have been a problem. It was suggested that there are a couple small screws holding the rear of the console cover in place. Nope nowhere to be found. I havn't gotten in the backseat and looked at the rear or the console yet though......but they are not in the trailing edge of the panel with the switches in it.
Sid, near Niagara Falls

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