Hear , hear .
-Nate
Tom wrote:
>
> Sid,
>
> STOP!
>
> No drilling tiny holes in things. No disassembling things and
> disconnecting wires before knowing what goes where, or at least being prepared to
> label things that you have disconnected.
>
> At your level of knowledge, one of the most valuable and least
> dangerous tools you can own is a small spiral or other binding, plastic covered
> notebook. In this you take notes AS you work. You draw little diagrams of
> plugs and wires and list what color went to what pin, etc.
>
> The window switches sit on your center console, where they can collect
> spilled coffee, soda, salt from french fries, etc. as well as just plain
> dust and lint from normal life. Drilling even tiny holes is calculated to
> aggravate any bad effects from such things. AND is SO UNNECESSARY.
>
> The window switches MAY be your problem But they may not. They come
> out easily. That center console board comes out (two little screws in the
> back edge, if I recall correctly, then moves back and up, GENTLY. You will
> see that the switches are on plugs and are pressure fit into the board.
> Pressing the pressure plates on each side lets the switch lift out.
>
> The switches can be opened and cleaned. As with any good switch, the
> contacts are cleaned with electronic contact cleaner or a pencil eraser.
> Anything more abrasive than a pencil eraser GUARANTEES future corrosion
> problems - GUARANTEES!!!
>
> When you take the switches apart, you will discovery that they contain
> a variety of small springs and ball bearings, each of which is actually
> alive and will try to escape from you if you let it. The trick is to do the
> disassembly on a CLEAN, white towel LARGER than you think that you will
> need, and to work in a well lit space. If it wouldn't be guaranteed to lead
> to spouse-icide, I'd suggest the dining room table and your wife's best
> linen tablecloth as a nearly perfect environment and setting for such work.
>
> These switches are also cheap items at any pick-a-part yard. So
> grabbing a few for experimental disassembly and cleaning before you work on the
> ones in your car is a good idea. (That way, you also end up with spare
> innards, for the ones that will escape when you disassemble the ones in your
> car.)
>
> Step back and think about this. Was the previous owner a smoker?
> That could cause schmutz buildup in the switches. But there are other
> possible reasons.
>
> Have you checked the fuses, to make sure that contacts are good and
> you are actually getting full voltage to the switches and window motors?
>
> You can open up the door panels and see if the window lifts are all
> dry. You can apply power directly to the motors to see if they run up and
> down.
>
> Everything on the car should be connected with plugs (except the damn
> seat position switches on early 126s, which are soldered!!!) This means
> that you can rig up mirror plugs that let you power the motors from a battery
> or power supply, bypassing the switch, to check whether the wiring, the
> motor, or the lift mechanism is having any difficulty.
>
> If you are lucky, cleaning or replacing the switches will solve your
> problem. but if you start by taking things apart, without notes or any
> guide to how to put them back together, you are not going to be lucky.
> Drilling holes in things that you don't YET know about is going to reduce your
> luck even further.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 11/25/2011 4:10:36 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> sidcranston@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> Now that you have solved my shifting dilemma, I would like to attack my
> power window faliures.
> The driver's window has been noticibly slower than the passanger's side.
> One day, I couldn't close it at all. Then it worked, later in the day. Now
> it is down 3/8ths", and annoying. I have tried the button at least 100
> times. Might I be able to drill a tiny hole in the top of it and spray some good
> electrical contact cleaner in there and expect it to do any good?
> I know when I bought the car, the seller said the rear windows had just
> quit working. I popped the rear switch out and was tinkering with it, and
> discovered that there are 6 wires to it, and I had them all over the place. I
> succeded in getting them back in the holder so thay can't short togeather,
> but not in any correct order! I am afraid to press the button back there
> now!
> Now all I have working is the passanger's side front.
> Sid, near Niagara Falls, (NY)
> Where 'they' will be spreadding SALT on the roads soon! REAL soon!
> This is a 1985 300 SD
>
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[diesel_mercedes] Re : Electric Window Gremlins
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