Diesel RVs: 01/26/08

[diesel_mercedes] Re: cold starting

With a block heater you're good to well past anything Quebec can throw
at you. Here in the Great White North my 300SD has started in -20C
without use of the block heater and has started easily at -40C with
the block heater in use.

Kelvin
82 300SD
92 Mitsubishi Pajero TD

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, "Victor Granic"
<victorgranic@...> wrote:
>
> I'm thinking about driving my '85 300TD into the frigid depths of
> Quebec City, Canada during mid-February. I was wondering if anyone
> had any personal experience with starting a vehicle such as mine in
> temperatures around -25C (-15F). I have a block heater installed and
> I plan to use it but I'm not sure if that'll be enough. Any thoughts?
> Would starting fluid help in addition to the block heater being
> plugged in?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Victor
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Re: Pulling a trailer with 240D

Gentlemen, gentlemen, gentlemen.

Don't be so paranoid. Trailer hitches rarely (if ever) come unhitched
from a towing vehicle. And it never happens if you follow the
manufacturer's specs. I suppose there's a chance of ripping off your
bumper and leaving the hitch attached to the trailer although in all
my years of driving and hauling trailers over millions of miles, I
have never seen either. I have towed everything (passenger
vehicle-wise) from a 1500lb tent trailer behind a VW Jetta (Turbo
diesel of course) to a horse trailer with six steeds in it behind a
3/4 ton (also diesel). All legal according to the manufacturer's specs
of the hitch and towing vehicle. And never have I had a problem or
seen a hitch related incident where the recommendations were followed.

If the manufacturer states that it's good for 1500lbs towing and 150
lbs tongue weight - then it is. They don't just haphazardly make these
claims. They've been tested and approved by the powers that be. The
big question is about the towing vehicle. What's the vehicle rated
for? Is it heavy enough to pull the load? I have a class 1 hitch on my
82 300SD, it's attached to the bumper and through the trunk, and last
year we towed our 2000 lb tent trailer to Alaska through the mountains
on a 3 week trip. I was completely unconcerned about the trailer
coming unattached from the vehicle due to the hitch letting go. And
guess what? Nothing happened. Completely uneventful. Wonderful trip.

Feel free to put whatever hitch you want on your 240D as long as it's
made for that vehicle and you follow the instructions for installing it.

Enjoy!

Kelvin
82 300SD
92 Mitsubishi Pajero TD

--- In diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@...> wrote:
>
> Your concerns are well placed. Here in So Cal it is not uncommon to
see guys pulling trailers at 70mph, usually with the kids dirt bikes
or 4 wheelers or ski boats fishtailing behind. I cut them a large
berth so I don't have to run over their pieces when the trailer pops
loose and the two bit chain can't hold it.
>
> brian
>
> Jeff Fennema <jeffcosmo@...> wrote:
You are seeing a cropped version of the etrailer hitch. when you see
> the whole thing it looks like it bolts onto the frame.
>
> Ring me when you find a frame to bolt that to on a Merc. The W123 is a
> unit-body car, without anything that resembles a frame at all.
> Jeff
> P.S. I know I repeat myself a lot on the trailer thing, but I drove
semi for
> awhile, and have towed with cars for awhile longer, and nothing
gets me as
> scared as a loose hitch. Well, other than that dream where I'm
still married
> to the schizoid one (Only four personalities, you'd think I'd
appreciate the
> variety...).
>
>
>
>
>
>
> brian from la verne, ca
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.
Try it now.
>

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Used DP - not used much

Batteries, and lighting. Not sure what year you are looking at but if
the batteries are over 1 year old ask to have them replaced. Check
all the lite fixtures for proper operating bulbs, 12V light bulbs are
expensive, ask to have the bulbs changed in the fixtures that receive
the most use. And of course check any and all maintenance records to
make sure all required/routine maintenance has been performed. Ask to
have Oil, Fuel Filters, and Air Compressor (if air ride/Brakes) and
Air Filters (for engine & generator) changed as a condition of the sale.

Spike
08 Newmar VTDP 3330
350HP ISBXT
Spartan NVS

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Diesel fuel

Felt so good today. Was in Yorba Linda and saw a sign at a gas station advertising diesel at $3.79 / gallon. I was at 1/4 tank and decided to fill up in Claremont (maybe 20 miles north) at the newly reopened Union station for $3.29 / gallon. Lets see, hmm, 14 gallons x $0.50 = $7.00 savings. Are these guys using diesel as a way to subsidize their 87 octane petrol wars, or what?

brian

vwnate1 <vwnate1@yahoo.com> wrote:

Yup ; Got it ! it was in the very next post .

THANX Henry , I _love_ the pea green color of your W-123 .

-Nate
Henry wrote:
>
> I thought I did, on the next email, since, I forgot to
here...........
>
> did it not make it?
>
> I got it.
>
> Henry

brian from la verne, ca

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Mounting Solar Panels

No way will I go charging down the highway with those expensive panels held down with nothing but sticky tape. Plus, I want enough structural integrity so that I can tilt the panels up to the optimal angle for winter boondocking - it makes a big (up to 40%) difference in power, but also a huge difference in stress on the mounting points.

I used polyurethane adhesive plus sixteen 1/4" "molly"-style anchors to mount panels somewhat smaller than yours.

Here's some detail about my install: <http://www.damouth.com/RVStuff/SolarInstall.shtml>

12:15 AM 1/23/2008, rickca99 wrote:
>I am about to mount 3 110 watt solar panels to our fiberglass roof
>using 3M VHB tape acquired from AM Solar.
>
>Is there anything I should be aware of before mounting these using this
>tape?

/Dave
mailto:Dave@Damouth.com
www.damouth.com

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[diesel_mercedes] Another Good Day's Work !

O.K. , it's been raining here in So. Cal. for a few weeks , to-day
there wasn't a cloud in the sky so after I went to a Metropolitan Nash
Club Tech Session and fixed members cars for free , I decidced to
tinker with my Diesel Coupe a bit , I got the passenger side window to
close up evenly , it had been raising crookedly and leaving gaps and
wind whistles etc.....

now it closes perfectly and no more noise/drafts on the Highway ...

I also fiddled with the vacuum systems and got almost all the leaks
fixed , I fixed the Central Locking , turned out I'd flipped a
connector inside the passenger side door on the locking circuit and it
had fallen off so my plastic tubes are all O.K. and it all now works
and holds vacuum for a few hours to boot , I'm shickled titless .

The one leaky vacuum tube is the _GREEN_ one under the hood , IIRC
this feeds the Klima I system but I know not where it goes under the
dash and I don't want to rip the whole dash apart to trace it so if
anyone knows where the _GREEN_ plastic vacuum tube runs , or a link to
trouble shooting the Klima I HVAC system , please forward it to me .

TIA ,

-Nate

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] cold starting

Victor,

Others have more experience with low temps than me.

One additional idea I have heard of - batteries do poorly when they are cold. I have heard of people turning on the headlights for a minute or so and then turning them off before trying to crank. The theory was that the hefty demand would warm the battery and let it put our more amps than it would have cold.

Anybody tried this idea?

Bobby

On 1/25/08, Victor Granic <victorgranic@yahoo.com> wrote:

I'm thinking about driving my '85 300TD into the frigid depths of
Quebec City, Canada during mid-February. I was wondering if anyone
had any personal experience with starting a vehicle such as mine in
temperatures around -25C (-15F). I have a block heater installed and
I plan to use it but I'm not sure if that'll be enough. Any thoughts?
Would starting fluid help in addition to the block heater being
plugged in?

Thanks,

Victor

--
Toward freedom,

Bobby Yates Emory __._,_.___

__,_._,___

[diesel_mercedes] Re: Pictures Of Henry's Fleet

Yes , I like green cars although they get hit a lot as green , being
a ' natural color ' (according to Insurance Institute) , most folks
don't pay attention to anything green .

SeaFoam Green is actually a bit lighter than the Pea Green is , I
like 'em both but moreso the deeper Pea Green , the very first W-123
Diesel Coupe I ever saw , was a _beatuiful_ Pea Green and the owner
wouldn't even consider parting wit it .

-Nate
Henry wrote:
>
> Thanks Nate.
>
> I've seen 3 of the exact same color now.......that's weird. I
don't remember
> ever seeing one that color......
> But,
> Maybe as is usually the case, once you are "on" something, you
notice more?
> The other two may be for sale, too.......both diesels, one a
300D.......
> grin.
> Of course, paying for them.....
> But, it would make quite the display, three "seafoam/pea soup"
green
> MBZ's..........
>
> Henry

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[diesel_mercedes] 300TD Fuel Tank Cleaning

Hi Mike ;

Right where the fuel hose attches to the bottom of the tank , should
be a 46MM hex , you unscrew this and all manner of Diesel fuel and
sludge etc. should come rushing out . (so have a BIG pan ready &
lots of rags , too)

Get a few gallons of gasoline and use it to rinse out the remaining
sludge and kill off the fungus , if that's what you have .

Use an old toothbrush & gas to _genlty_ clean the intank screen .

I'd prolly add a WIX/NAPA # 33011 filter before the intake screen in
the engine compartment and carry some spares , be ready to remove it
and blow it out reverse a few times before it'll stay clean .

You can add an entire 8 Oz. bottle of Startron to shock the fungus
to death , then use another big bottle in the required amounts over
the next few tankfulls to clean it all out .

I wonder of some PIA kid dropped a glob of Georgia clay into your
tank for fun......

Could be rust of you're _really_ lucky but de-rusing the tank is
easy , once you remove it .

-Nate
Mike Wrote :

Wagon fuel tank

Hey group.

My 81 turbo wagon will run good, then bad, then good, then bad. The
primary fuel filter fills up solid in under 150 miles. I searched
the archives for information on pulling the fuel tank, and found out
I most likely have organisms and slime in my fuel tank.

I looked under the car and didn't find a removeable in-tank screen.
There is no access to the top of the tank from the cargo area.
All's I found was a plug with a hex in the center of the tank bottom.

Am I going to have to pull the tank anyway? The material I find in
the filter is red, and looks very similar to this awful dirt we have
here in Georgia. I'm assuming it's rust. Would a couple cans of
that Startron help me at all? Thanks for any advice.

Mike Clark
1981 300TD
Stockbridge, Georgia

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Pictures Of Henry's Fleet

Thanks Nate.

I've seen 3 of the exact same color now.......that's weird. I don't remember
ever seeing one that color......
But,
Maybe as is usually the case, once you are "on" something, you notice more?
The other two may be for sale, too.......both diesels, one a 300D.......
grin.
Of course, paying for them.....
But, it would make quite the display, three "seafoam/pea soup" green
MBZ's..........

Henry

----- Original Message -----
From: "vwnate1" <vwnate1@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 8:03 PM
Subject: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Pictures Of Henry's Fleet

Yup ; Got it ! it was in the very next post .

THANX Henry , I _love_ the pea green color of your W-123 .

-Nate
Henry wrote:
>
> I thought I did, on the next email, since, I forgot to
here...........
>
> did it not make it?
>
> I got it.
>
> Henry

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[diesel_mercedes] hood release handle & hitch thoughts

my hood release cable handle (black curved plastic underneath and to
left of steering wheel) busted a few days ago--still attached to the
cable, but not to the wall of the car--any pointers on opening the
hood from here? thanks,
~stefan

p.s. i fabricated a hitch last summer using brian's photos that are
posted in the photos file--worked great, towed a 2600 pound load from
arizona to oregon, over the sierra nevadas and through yosemite. i
recommend it highly, it's a great design.

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re: House WATER PUMPS

On the Atwood water heater that I have, it has a check valve located at the hot water tank where the cold water inlet is -- prevents the back pressure from going back against the water pump.

--
Dave Knight
dknig288@comcast.net
Hook'em Horns 1969

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "r1j2nicky" <r1j2nicky@yahoo.com>

> Have to chime in,Bruce, you are correct about the expansion,but the
> air gap or accumulator tank doesn,t slow down the pressure rise,it
> prevents it,well most of it anyway.It just simply gives a place for
> the expansion to go, Ron-- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, Bruce
> Sherman wrote:
> >
> > Gary,
> >
> > When water or another liquid is heated in a confined space, the
> pressure can
> > rise very quickly because the liquid wants to expand, and there is
> no place
> > to go. The pressure rises much more slowly if there is a gas space
> in the
> > system. The fluid expands into the available space and the gas
> compresses.
> > System pressure rises much more slowly. Both the gas and the liquid
> will be
> > at the same pressure by definition. That¹s why accumulator tanks
> are used on
> > liquid systems.
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> > On 1/24/08 8:24 AM, "Chuck & Mary Boros"
> cleverly
> > wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Gary,
> > > The information was given to me by the head engineer at
> Shurflo. Don't think
> > > that Shurflo would spend all that money and time redesigning
> their high end
> > > pump heads plus the cost of changing out all the existing new
> inventory in the
> > > market place. Chuck B
> > >
> > > Gary Brinck > wrote:
> > > Chuck,
> > > Unless I flunked my physics courses, the pressure in the hot
> water tank will
> > > be the same whether there is an air head or not. Like everything
> else, water
> > > expands when heated. For that matter, so does the air head - it
> reaches the
> > > same temperature as the water in the tank. The air gets
> compressed, increasing
> > > the pressure throughout the tank and back along the cold water
> inlet.
> > >
> > > This does not dispute the notion that back pressure could cause
> pump failures.
> > > However, maintaining a good air head won't alleviate that
> problem. What it
> > > will do is prevent water leakage at the pressure/temperature
> relief valve.
> > >
> > >> > Many water pumps that fail has to do with high back flow
> pressure from the
> > >> > hot water heaters. Hot water heaters need to have the top of
> the tank head
> > >> > space of air. If not, the heated water expands from heating
> and puts high
> > >> > pressure back on the cold water input to the tank. That higher
> pressure
> > >> goes
> > >> > back to the output side of the water pump causing internal
> failure to the
> > >> > water pump parts. A accumulator tank on the output side of the
> water pump
> > >> > will compensate for the back flow pressure. Some folks have
> recommended a
> > >> > back flow valve attached to the input cold water line at the
> water heater.
> > >> > Most water heater manufacturers advise against that. Shurflo's
> high end
> > >> pump
> > >> > line had high pressure back flow failure problems and the
> water pumps had
> > >> to
> > >> > be redesigned so that the pump can withstand the higher
> pressure. All known
> > >> > vendor stock was to be replaced as of last August. Camping
> World now has
> > >> the
> > >> > new designed pumps in stock. You can tell the new design by
> the pump
> > >> > housing. Shurflo warrentee's their high end line for 3 years.
> Aquahot
> > >> > equipped coaches do not have that problem. Chuck B
> > >
> > > Gary
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------
> Off-topic posts will be removed.
> Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you
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>
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>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Pulling a trailer with 240D

Jeff I did see the one you made and it looks a lot like etrailer one.

steve

On Jan 26, 2008 2:50 PM, Jeff Fennema <jeffcosmo@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yeah. The Valley one is a "Multi-Fit", which, in layman's terms, means they
> might be able to bodge it onto your car.
> And they might not.
> It appears that that is the hitch that will pop up whenever you request a
> hitch for a vehicle that they do not have a specific fitment.
> Please do look into the Photos section under trailer hitch. If the hitch
> you
> find does not look like what I made, do NOT buy it. There is simply no
> other
> mounting place suitable for towing. When I found my factory hitch, I was
> pleased that it mounted in EXACTLY the same way as the hitch I made.
> Exactly.
> The differences were simply the forming of braces, owing to the presses
> available to mass production. Oh, yeah, I know that sounds like egotism.
> Tough, I pulled a 3000 pound plus trailer from Miami to Chicago, plus
> numerous moves around here. I know that my hitch is built right.
> Pics of the factory hitch are coming, it just got warm-ish here (20 ºF).
> Jeff
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Schaefer" <sschaefer50@gmail.com>
> To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 6:21 AM
> Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Pulling a trailer with 240D
>
> I did find a couple hitches; does anyone know anything about either
> one of these?
>
>
> http://www.etrailer.com/productdetail.asp?partno=11614&vehicleid=7070&yearfrom=1982&h=
>
>
> http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?D=Mercedes+Hitch&Ntt=Mercedes+Hitch&Dx=mode+matchall&Ntk=Main&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&N=11124&Nty=1
>
> Steve
>
> On Jan 25, 2008 11:53 PM, <cw4dtu@wideopenwest.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Jeff,
> >
> > I looked at that a long time ago and there is a hitch for the 123s that's
> > reasonably safe unless you want to tow a cattle car. Will have to look in
> > my
> > archives to find you info, later next week.
> >
> > Darryl Urcheck (yes the guy from the Cit lists lol who also owns a 240d)
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 20:19:30 -0600, Jeff Fennema wrote
> >
> > > > hey I just called u-haul about installing a hitch on my 240D. They
> > > > said they did not have one for the 240D. Has anyone installed a
> > > > u-haul hitch on there 240D, I thought someone said they had?
> > > >
> > > I would very much doubt that anyone had a hitch for a car that was
> > produced
> > > last over 23 years ago, was somewhat limited in appeal due to
> > > excessively
> > > high purchase price (my coupé, $37,000 in '84: an Eldorado - $18,000),
> > > and
> > > the overwhelming trend towards towing with trucks.
> > > Further, the only hitch I have ever seen on any W123 not my own, was an
> > > extremely dangerous affair bolted through the trunk floor (too thin by
> > far)
> > > and through the rear bumper (attached to the car by a rubber mount, AND
> > > aluminum to boot).
> > > However, that said, Valley Hitch, FWIW, list a hitch for W123, but
> there
> > is
> > > no picture available, and no one I've talked to knows what this thing
> > looks
> > > like.
> > >
> > > For those who can, or know someone who fabricates, there is enough info
> > > in
> > > my Photo entry on hitches to allow you to fabricate a safe, sturdy
> hitch
> > for
> > > any W123. Raw material is a hitch for a Jeep Cherokee of late-eighties
> > > vintage (the really square ones). These are common in junkyards (the
> > hitch,
> > > AND the Jeep). Bonus: the fabrication was really quite simple - cut the
> > arms
> > > off the centre bar, drill to fit behind the bumper mounts, then reweld
> > back
> > > onto the bar in a different location than was before. I could probably
> > > do
> > > another in a couple hours, it's that easy.
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > WOW! Homepage (http://www.wowway.com)
> >
> >
>
> --
> Steve Schaefer
>
> Those who give up liberty for the sake of security deserve neither
> liberty nor security.
> --- Ben Franklin
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>

--
Steve Schaefer

Those who give up liberty for the sake of security deserve neither
liberty nor security.
--- Ben Franklin

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Pulling a trailer with 240D

You are seeing a cropped version of the etrailer hitch. when you see
the whole thing it looks like it bolts onto the frame.

Ring me when you find a frame to bolt that to on a Merc. The W123 is a
unit-body car, without anything that resembles a frame at all.
Jeff
P.S. I know I repeat myself a lot on the trailer thing, but I drove semi for
awhile, and have towed with cars for awhile longer, and nothing gets me as
scared as a loose hitch. Well, other than that dream where I'm still married
to the schizoid one (Only four personalities, you'd think I'd appreciate the
variety...).

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Pulling a trailer with 240D

Yeah. The Valley one is a "Multi-Fit", which, in layman's terms, means they
might be able to bodge it onto your car.
And they might not.
It appears that that is the hitch that will pop up whenever you request a
hitch for a vehicle that they do not have a specific fitment.
Please do look into the Photos section under trailer hitch. If the hitch you
find does not look like what I made, do NOT buy it. There is simply no other
mounting place suitable for towing. When I found my factory hitch, I was
pleased that it mounted in EXACTLY the same way as the hitch I made.
Exactly.
The differences were simply the forming of braces, owing to the presses
available to mass production. Oh, yeah, I know that sounds like egotism.
Tough, I pulled a 3000 pound plus trailer from Miami to Chicago, plus
numerous moves around here. I know that my hitch is built right.
Pics of the factory hitch are coming, it just got warm-ish here (20 ºF).
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Schaefer" <sschaefer50@gmail.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 6:21 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Pulling a trailer with 240D

I did find a couple hitches; does anyone know anything about either
one of these?

http://www.etrailer.com/productdetail.asp?partno=11614&vehicleid=7070&yearfrom=1982&h=

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?D=Mercedes+Hitch&Ntt=Mercedes+Hitch&Dx=mode+matchall&Ntk=Main&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&N=11124&Nty=1

Steve

On Jan 25, 2008 11:53 PM, <cw4dtu@wideopenwest.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Jeff,
>
> I looked at that a long time ago and there is a hitch for the 123s that's
> reasonably safe unless you want to tow a cattle car. Will have to look in
> my
> archives to find you info, later next week.
>
> Darryl Urcheck (yes the guy from the Cit lists lol who also owns a 240d)
>
>
>
> On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 20:19:30 -0600, Jeff Fennema wrote
>
> > > hey I just called u-haul about installing a hitch on my 240D. They
> > > said they did not have one for the 240D. Has anyone installed a
> > > u-haul hitch on there 240D, I thought someone said they had?
> > >
> > I would very much doubt that anyone had a hitch for a car that was
> produced
> > last over 23 years ago, was somewhat limited in appeal due to
> > excessively
> > high purchase price (my coupé, $37,000 in '84: an Eldorado - $18,000),
> > and
> > the overwhelming trend towards towing with trucks.
> > Further, the only hitch I have ever seen on any W123 not my own, was an
> > extremely dangerous affair bolted through the trunk floor (too thin by
> far)
> > and through the rear bumper (attached to the car by a rubber mount, AND
> > aluminum to boot).
> > However, that said, Valley Hitch, FWIW, list a hitch for W123, but there
> is
> > no picture available, and no one I've talked to knows what this thing
> looks
> > like.
> >
> > For those who can, or know someone who fabricates, there is enough info
> > in
> > my Photo entry on hitches to allow you to fabricate a safe, sturdy hitch
> for
> > any W123. Raw material is a hitch for a Jeep Cherokee of late-eighties
> > vintage (the really square ones). These are common in junkyards (the
> hitch,
> > AND the Jeep). Bonus: the fabrication was really quite simple - cut the
> arms
> > off the centre bar, drill to fit behind the bumper mounts, then reweld
> back
> > onto the bar in a different location than was before. I could probably
> > do
> > another in a couple hours, it's that easy.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> WOW! Homepage (http://www.wowway.com)
>
>

--
Steve Schaefer

Those who give up liberty for the sake of security deserve neither
liberty nor security.
--- Ben Franklin

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Wagon fuel tank

Take a look (remove spaces in url).

http://www.performanceproducts4benz.com/drawings.aspx?bmid=135

brian

Mike Clark <half_aussie@hotmail.com> wrote:

Hey group.

My 81 turbo wagon will run good, then bad, then good, then bad. The primary fuel filter fills up solid in under 150 miles. I searched the archives for information on pulling the fuel tank, and found out I most likely have organisms and slime in my fuel tank.

I looked under the car and didn't find a removeable in-tank screen. There is no access to the top of the tank from the cargo area. All's I found was a plug with a hex in the center of the tank bottom.

Am I going to have to pull the tank anyway? The material I find in the filter is red, and looks very similar to this awful dirt we have here in Georgia. I'm assuming it's rust. Would a couple cans of that Startron help me at all? Thanks for any advice.

Mike Clark
1981 300TD
Stockbridge, Georgia

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Link to photos

ygmir111 wrote:

> OOps,
> I hope this is the direct link.
> Otherwise, they're posted under "Henry's cars".
>
> http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/photos/browse/a48d

> <http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/photos/browse/a48d>
>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Link to photos

ygmir111 wrote:

> OOps,
> I hope this is the direct link.
> Otherwise, they're posted under "Henry's cars".
>
> http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/photos/browse/a48d

> <http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/diesel_mercedes/photos/browse/a48d>
>
>

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[diesel_mercedes] Wagon fuel tank

Hey group.

My 81 turbo wagon will run good, then bad, then good, then bad. The primary fuel filter fills up solid in under 150 miles. I searched the archives for information on pulling the fuel tank, and found out I most likely have organisms and slime in my fuel tank.

I looked under the car and didn't find a removeable in-tank screen. There is no access to the top of the tank from the cargo area. All's I found was a plug with a hex in the center of the tank bottom.

Am I going to have to pull the tank anyway? The material I find in the filter is red, and looks very similar to this awful dirt we have here in Georgia. I'm assuming it's rust. Would a couple cans of that Startron help me at all? Thanks for any advice.

Mike Clark
1981 300TD
Stockbridge, Georgia

Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star power. Play now! __._,_.___

__,_._,___

Re: [Diesel-RVs] Realtime tire inflation systems

Geeze,
After reading all the emails on the subject, it looks like some have fixed a problem I
did not know existed. I will file this away as "OK, the thing does exist, but I do not
think I will worry". I will still check my tires the old fashioned way(mainly with a no
contact thermometer), and go down the road on my merry way. Like I said earlier, just one
more gizmo to go wrong.
Russ
34' 1996 HMC Aerosport Special Edition Cummins 8.3 - 300 HP

----- Original Message -----
From: "Russ Waterhouse" <mredsel890@earthlink.net>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 9:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Diesel-RVs] Realtime tire inflation systems

: David,
: This is a hypothetical thing right? Why fix something that is not broken. Tires are
: designed to do what they do, why worry? You would need a computer in each tire and have
: compressor hooked to each valve stem, and even the sun shine would change the tires. To
: much after market gear to worry about. The more "stuff" in a coach, the more things to
go
: wrong.
: Russ
: ----- Original Message -----
: From: "david brady" <dmb993@earthlink.net>
: To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
: Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 7:22 PM
: Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Realtime tire inflation systems
:
:
:: Folks,
::
:: Here's a hypothetical question for you. Assume the tire load tables
:: spec that you should be running 100psi in your steer tires to support
:: your 10,000lb front end. We all know that the 100psi should be set when
:: the tire is cold. What if I install a realtime tire inflation/deflation
:: system that can alter the tire pressure as I drive down the road. How
:: should the pressures in the tire be adjusted. If all that's required is
:: 100psi to support 10,000 pounds, then as the tire heats and the
:: pressures rise, is it reasonable to bleed of pressure back to the
:: 100psi required to sustain the load?
::
:: Thanks,
:: David Brady
:: Blue Bird, LXi
::
::
::
:: --------------------------------------------
:: Off-topic posts will be removed.
:: Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.
::
:: To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
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::
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::
::
::
::
:
:
:
: --------------------------------------------
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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Realtime tire inflation systems

David,
This is a hypothetical thing right? Why fix something that is not broken. Tires are
designed to do what they do, why worry? You would need a computer in each tire and have
compressor hooked to each valve stem, and even the sun shine would change the tires. To
much after market gear to worry about. The more "stuff" in a coach, the more things to go
wrong.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "david brady" <dmb993@earthlink.net>
To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 7:22 PM
Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Realtime tire inflation systems

: Folks,
:
: Here's a hypothetical question for you. Assume the tire load tables
: spec that you should be running 100psi in your steer tires to support
: your 10,000lb front end. We all know that the 100psi should be set when
: the tire is cold. What if I install a realtime tire inflation/deflation
: system that can alter the tire pressure as I drive down the road. How
: should the pressures in the tire be adjusted. If all that's required is
: 100psi to support 10,000 pounds, then as the tire heats and the
: pressures rise, is it reasonable to bleed of pressure back to the
: 100psi required to sustain the load?
:
: Thanks,
: David Brady
: Blue Bird, LXi
:
:
:
: --------------------------------------------
: Off-topic posts will be removed.
: Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the RV model you have.
:
: To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
: Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
:
: Yahoo! Groups Links
:
:
:
:

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Correct Tire Pressure

Read the tire manuals. "Minimum pressure for maximum load".

Charlie
1999 Tradewinds

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "Russ Waterhouse"
<mredsel890@...> wrote:
>
> To me, the side wall reads Maximum pressure for Maximum load,
Increasing the tire pressure
> beyond the Max pressure is asking for trouble. As is overloading
the tires.
> Russ
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cbgramp" <cbgramps@...>
> To: <Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 8:55 AM
> Subject: [Diesel-RVs] Re: Correct Tire Pressure
>
>
> : Not really. The 110 psi is the minimum pressure requiered to carry
> : the maximum load. You can increase the pressure beyond 110 psi
but it
> : will not increase the carrying capacity of the tire. Of course,
> : hopefully, you won't need the maximum carrying capacity of the
tires
> : so you can carry less pressure and get the job done.
> :
> : Charlie
> : 1999 Tradewinds
> :
> : --- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, Chuck & Mary Boros
> : <elmerfletcher@> wrote:
> : >
> : > The 110 psi cold is the maxium COLD pressure you can put into
the
> : tires. As you drive down the blvd, the heat from the tires
rolling
> : will increase that pressure. That is why Goodyear wants you to
use
> : the cold pressure figures at the beginning of each day. The
duals on
> : the rear need to be within one or so lbs from each other or one
tire
> : will run hotter than the other. I'm sure someone will chime in
about
> : road crown.
> : >
> : > You need to load your coach with all your goodies,the DW, fill
> : your diesel tank, propane and fresh water tanks. Then go weigh
your
> : coach. Goodyear has a chart on what tire pressure you need to use
> : for each axle. You can probably find that chart on line.
> : > You never did say what size tires you had. Chuck B
> : >
> : > raasfarm <raasfarm@> wrote:
> : > I recently purchased a 2006 Gulfstream Friendship G7
> : motorhome on the
> : > Freightliner chassis. What is the correct air pressure? The tire
> : > manufacturer, Goodyear, has 110 psi cold.
> : >
> : >
> : >
> : >
> : >
> : >
> : > Chuck & Mary Boros
> : > 04 Windsor 02 Ford Ranger
> : > Shelby Dog, Miss Kitty, Mr Lucky Cat
> : >
> : > ---------------------------------
> : > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
> : >
> : > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> : >
> :
> :
> :
> :
> : --------------------------------------------
> : Off-topic posts will be removed.
> : Please sign with your name (real or online name) and include the
RV model you have.
> :
> : To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to
> : Diesel-RVs-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> :
> : Yahoo! Groups Links
> :
> :
> :
> :
>

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: Realtime tire inflation systems

David- Passenger busses in Baja have a real time inflation system on
all 4 corners. They have a pressure disc made of two pieces; one is
carried on the tire's lug nuts (I think, it rides outboard of the
wheel and is attached to the wheel at its center and this inner piece
rotates with the wheel); the outer second piece is stationary, and
there is a seal between the two. An air line connects to the outer
piece. The steer tire setups have gimbaled air connections so the
tire can steer unimpeded. I have no idea what the inflation/deflation
algorithms call for as to temperature compensation. I did hear that
one got torn off in a wreck and the tire deflated, but have no proof
of that. Best of luck w/this experiment. Mike

--- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, "david brady" <dmb993@...> wrote:
>
> Folks, What if I install a realtime tire inflation/deflation
> system..., is it reasonable to bleed of pressure back to the
> 100psi required to sustain the load?
>
> Thanks,
> David Brady
> Blue Bird, LXi
>

--------------------------------------------
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 240D, Manual, 280K miles, Portland, OR - Gotta sell this little beauty...

I searched Portland Craig'slist for 240D manual, and, came up with
nothing.....even from earlier in the month..........

----- Original Message -----
From: <cw4dtu@wideopenwest.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] 240D, Manual, 280K miles, Portland, OR -
Gotta sell this little beauty...

>I am seriously interested but need to see pics and get a description. will
>be going out to west coast soon, pls let me know BEFORE 01 Feb or I may
>have to charter a plan vs driving the trailer and vehicle
>
> On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 07:53:03 -0800 (PST), BStromsoe wrote
>> Says website posting (on Craig's) has expired, hence no pics. Why not
>> post them on our group site?
>>
>> brian
>>
>> slammals <leofrish@acm.org> wrote:
>
>>
>> If anyone in the area is interested, we'd really like to find a good
>> home for this guy.
>>
>> See my message a little earlier in the month, or take a look at our
>> craigslist posting...
>>
>> http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/543277810.html
>>
>> Make an offer...I promise not to laugh.
>>
>> Leo
>>
>>
>>
>> brian from la verne, ca
>>
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
> now.
>
> --
> WOW! Homepage (http://www.wowway.com)
>
>
>

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] cold starting

Brian

That's good advice, here's some stuff I do:

On my twin tank 300d wvo fueled Chevy van sits outside in all weathers:

First dig said vehicle out of snow drift whilst hoping that the silicone lube on the weather seals is still working so you can get the doors open, and if you locked it, that the graphite is is doing it's job. Sprinkle sand, ash and stuff on ice front and rear of wheels in case rocking momentum is required to gain momentum. Don gloves so as not to leave skin on door handle, climb in prepare to start engine.
I use a thinner winter grade motor oil between October and April because even engine oil gets thick when cold.
I've got a 240v block heater but I only use it at > -10c (when I remember and if I know there's cool coming on)! And if I can find the business end under the snow.
BUT, and this is the important thing, I've got TWO 125ah batteries, one does the glow plugs for 20-30 seconds the other spins the engine when ready. Both batteries are kept charged and I monitor this with 2 proper amp meters, and there is a facility for recharging from domestic if needed.
I know my loop glow plugs work but I am saving up for the modern kit anyway. I don't have any fancy relays, just one wire to a HD spring switch from the + pole on it's dedicated battery and one from the switch to the glowies.
Earth terminals are to chassis and engine and they are clean with copper paste protection.
BOTH the clutch and the accelerator pedals are floored and held until the engine starts, which is always on Dino or Bio diesel. It always starts straight away unless I forgot to switch something off the night before.
When the engine settles down to a tick over it's time to get out and scrape the windows which sometimes needs a heat gun to break the armor ice, which is why it's handy to have the block heater feed nearby.
It takes 4 - 7 km's before switch over to wvo, depending on the cold. The block heater makes no difference to this but there is some other stuff I may do to speed things up.

I was having trouble with starting too some years ago until I did the 2 battery thing. It stands to reason really that if you're tiring the battery first by juicing the glow plugs for a while coss it's cold, and then ask the same battery to crank a cold stiff 5 banger at speed - well, it's all a bit unreasonable really.

Best wishes
KJ

BStromsoe wrote:

1. Park it in a heated garage.
2. Put a drop cord with 100 watt bulb under the hood.
3. Ask Karl J what they do in the far north where the reindeer frolic.
4. Got to be some guys in the Michigan peninsula who have some secrets.
5. Keep a gasser for backup.
6. Keep a spare charged up battery handy.
7. Pray for an early spring.
8. Little kerosene in the tank goes a long way.
9. Check the bus routes in case you need one.

brian

Victor Granic <victorgranic@yahoo.com> wrote:

I'm thinking about driving my '85 300TD into the frigid depths of
Quebec City, Canada during mid-February. I was wondering if anyone
had any personal experience with starting a vehicle such as mine in
temperatures around -25C (-15F). I have a block heater installed and
I plan to use it but I'm not sure if that'll be enough. Any thoughts?
Would starting fluid help in addition to the block heater being
plugged in?

Thanks,

Victor

brian from la verne, ca

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] cold starting

Brian is right on.........

I might add:
A good, stock, block heater will get it all done........as long as your fuel
can handle the cold........
as long as it's given enough time to warm things.
I'm sure Ma thought of the frigid temps these cars would be potentially
exposed to, and, sized the heater accordingly.

Good luck,
Henry

----- Original Message -----
From: "BStromsoe" <bstromsoe@yahoo.com>
To: <diesel_mercedes@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 8:00 AM
Subject: Re: [diesel_mercedes] cold starting

> 1. Park it in a heated garage.
> 2. Put a drop cord with 100 watt bulb under the hood.
> 3. Ask Karl J what they do in the far north where the reindeer frolic.
> 4. Got to be some guys in the Michigan peninsula who have some secrets.
> 5. Keep a gasser for backup.
> 6. Keep a spare charged up battery handy.
> 7. Pray for an early spring.
> 8. Little kerosene in the tank goes a long way.
> 9. Check the bus routes in case you need one.
>
> brian
>
> Victor Granic <victorgranic@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I'm thinking about driving my '85 300TD into the frigid depths of
> Quebec City, Canada during mid-February. I was wondering if anyone
> had any personal experience with starting a vehicle such as mine in
> temperatures around -25C (-15F). I have a block heater installed and
> I plan to use it but I'm not sure if that'll be enough. Any thoughts?
> Would starting fluid help in addition to the block heater being
> plugged in?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Victor
>
>
>
>
>
>
> brian from la verne, ca
>
> ---------------------------------
> Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!
> Search.

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Re: [Diesel-RVs] Re:Realtime tire inflation systems

More info:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/self-inflating-tire4.htm

The system is only designed for a trailer, and it only maintains
pressure - doesn't reduce it. So although it would account for
underinflation it wouldn't correct overinflation.

Dennis Codella wrote:
> FYI, Check the following URL.
>
>

http://www.arvinmeritor.com/products/aftermarket/cvatireinflationsystems.asp
>
>
> Dennis Codella
> '02 Endeavor PDQ
> Quartzsite, AZ
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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Re: [diesel_mercedes] Re: Pulling a trailer with 240D

You are seeing a cropped version of the etrailer hitch. when you see
the whole thing it looks like it bolts onto the frame.

I am looking to make a run to home depot now and then and have the
ability to trailer my motorcycle if needed.

Steve

On Jan 26, 2008 10:50 AM, BStromsoe <bstromsoe@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Do not look like they bolt to the frame to me, or anything else of
> substance. So, what are you towing? A one time transport of your dog "woof"
> from Philly to NYC
> or a daily run of your Harley from Bozeman to Boise? If safety is an issue
> (as it should be if I am driving next to you, I would look for something
> that is bolting to your heavy metal, not bumpers and floorboards.
>
> brian
>
>
>
>
> Steve Schaefer <sschaefer50@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> I did find a couple hitches; does anyone know anything about either
> one of these?
>
>
> http://www.etrailer.com/productdetail.asp?partno=11614&vehicleid=7070&yearfrom=1982&h=
>
>
> http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?D=Mercedes+Hitch&Ntt=Mercedes+Hitch&Dx=mode+matchall&Ntk=Main&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&N=11124&Nty=1
>
> Steve
>
> On Jan 25, 2008 11:53 PM, <cw4dtu@wideopenwest.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Jeff,
> >
> > I looked at that a long time ago and there is a hitch for the 123s that's
> > reasonably safe unless you want to tow a cattle car. Will have to look in
> my
> > archives to find you info, later next week.
> >
> > Darryl Urcheck (yes the guy from the Cit lists lol who also owns a 240d)
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 20:19:30 -0600, Jeff Fennema wrote
> >
> > > > hey I just called u-haul about installing a hitch on my 240D. They
> > > > said they did not have one for the 240D. Has anyone installed a
> > > > u-haul hitch on there 240D, I thought someone said they had?
> > > >
> > > I would very much doubt that anyone had a hitch for a car that was
> > produced
> > > last over 23 years ago, was somewhat limited in appeal due to
> excessively
> > > high purchase price (my coupé, $37,000 in '84: an Eldorado - $18,000),
> and
> > > the overwhelming trend towards towing with trucks.
> > > Further, the only hitch I have ever seen on any W123 not my own, was an
> > > extremely dangerous affair bolted through the trunk floor (too thin by
> > far)
> > > and through the rear bumper (attached to the car by a rubber mount, AND
> > > aluminum to boot).
> > > However, that said, Valley Hitch, FWIW, list a hitch for W123, but
> there
> > is
> > > no picture available, and no one I've talked to knows what this thing
> > looks
> > > like.
> > >
> > > For those who can, or know someone who fabricates, there is enough info
> in
> > > my Photo entry on hitches to allow you to fabricate a safe, sturdy
> hitch
> > for
> > > any W123. Raw material is a hitch for a Jeep Cherokee of late-eighties
> > > vintage (the really square ones). These are common in junkyards (the
> > hitch,
> > > AND the Jeep). Bonus: the fabrication was really quite simple - cut the
> > arms
> > > off the centre bar, drill to fit behind the bumper mounts, then reweld
> > back
> > > onto the bar in a different location than was before. I could probably
> do
> > > another in a couple hours, it's that easy.
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > WOW! Homepage (http://www.wowway.com)
> >
> >
>
> --
> Steve Schaefer
>
> Those who give up liberty for the sake of security deserve neither
> liberty nor security.
> --- Ben Franklin
>
>
>
> brian from la verne, ca
>
> ________________________________
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

--
Steve Schaefer

Those who give up liberty for the sake of security deserve neither
liberty nor security.
--- Ben Franklin

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Re: [diesel_mercedes] 240D, Manual, 280K miles, Portland, OR - Gotta sell this little beauty...

I am seriously interested but need to see pics and get a description. will be going out to west coast soon, pls let me know BEFORE 01 Feb or I may have to charter a plan vs driving the trailer and vehicle

On Sat, 26 Jan 2008 07:53:03 -0800 (PST), BStromsoe wrote
> Says website posting (on Craig's) has expired, hence no pics. Why not post them on our group site?
>
> brian
>
> slammals <leofrish@acm.org> wrote:

>
> If anyone in the area is interested, we'd really like to find a good
> home for this guy.
>
> See my message a little earlier in the month, or take a look at our
> craigslist posting...
>
> http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/543277810.html
>
> Make an offer...I promise not to laugh.
>
> Leo
>
>

>
> brian from la verne, ca
>

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--
WOW! Homepage (http://www.wowway.com)

__._,_.___

__,_._,___

[Diesel-RVs] Re:Realtime tire inflation systems

FYI, Check the following URL.

http://www.arvinmeritor.com/products/aftermarket/cvatireinflationsystems.asp

Dennis Codella
'02 Endeavor PDQ
Quartzsite, AZ

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Diesel-RVs] Re: House WATER PUMPS

Have to chime in,Bruce, you are correct about the expansion,but the
air gap or accumulator tank doesn,t slow down the pressure rise,it
prevents it,well most of it anyway.It just simply gives a place for
the expansion to go, Ron-- In Diesel-RVs@yahoogroups.com, Bruce
Sherman <bruce@...> wrote:
>
> Gary,
>
> When water or another liquid is heated in a confined space, the
pressure can
> rise very quickly because the liquid wants to expand, and there is
no place
> to go. The pressure rises much more slowly if there is a gas space
in the
> system. The fluid expands into the available space and the gas
compresses.
> System pressure rises much more slowly. Both the gas and the liquid
will be
> at the same pressure by definition. That¹s why accumulator tanks
are used on
> liquid systems.
>
> Bruce
>
> On 1/24/08 8:24 AM, "Chuck & Mary Boros" <elmerfletcher@...>
cleverly
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Gary,
> > The information was given to me by the head engineer at
Shurflo. Don't think
> > that Shurflo would spend all that money and time redesigning
their high end
> > pump heads plus the cost of changing out all the existing new
inventory in the
> > market place. Chuck B
> >
> > Gary Brinck <gbrinck@... <mailto:gbrinck%40cfl.rr.com> > wrote:
> > Chuck,
> > Unless I flunked my physics courses, the pressure in the hot
water tank will
> > be the same whether there is an air head or not. Like everything
else, water
> > expands when heated. For that matter, so does the air head - it
reaches the
> > same temperature as the water in the tank. The air gets
compressed, increasing
> > the pressure throughout the tank and back along the cold water
inlet.
> >
> > This does not dispute the notion that back pressure could cause
pump failures.
> > However, maintaining a good air head won't alleviate that
problem. What it
> > will do is prevent water leakage at the pressure/temperature
relief valve.
> >
> >> > Many water pumps that fail has to do with high back flow
pressure from the
> >> > hot water heaters. Hot water heaters need to have the top of
the tank head
> >> > space of air. If not, the heated water expands from heating
and puts high
> >> > pressure back on the cold water input to the tank. That higher
pressure
> >> goes
> >> > back to the output side of the water pump causing internal
failure to the
> >> > water pump parts. A accumulator tank on the output side of the
water pump
> >> > will compensate for the back flow pressure. Some folks have
recommended a
> >> > back flow valve attached to the input cold water line at the
water heater.
> >> > Most water heater manufacturers advise against that. Shurflo's
high end
> >> pump
> >> > line had high pressure back flow failure problems and the
water pumps had
> >> to
> >> > be redesigned so that the pump can withstand the higher
pressure. All known
> >> > vendor stock was to be replaced as of last August. Camping
World now has
> >> the
> >> > new designed pumps in stock. You can tell the new design by
the pump
> >> > housing. Shurflo warrentee's their high end line for 3 years.
Aquahot
> >> > equipped coaches do not have that problem. Chuck B
> >
> > Gary
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

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